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  • Cabinet Re-facing: Finishing Touches
  • From "Weekend Handyman"
    episode WKH-102
    advertisement

    Click here to view a larger image.

    Here is a "before" shot of the kitchen cabinets that host Paul Ryan will re-face, and ...

    Click here to view a larger image.

    here is the "after" shot. This two-day project will be well worth your efforts, and Ryan can show you how to make your kitchen look brand new.

    Click here to view a larger image.

    Figure A

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    Figure B

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    Figure C

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    Figure D

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    Figure E

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    Figure F

    Note: Click here for a materials list and complete instructions without images.


    Materials for the Complete Job:

    Table saw
    Miter saw
    Jig saw
    Pneumatic finish nailer and nails
    Compressor and hose
    Wood glue
    Wood putty
    Tape measure
    Framing square
    Speed square
    Saw horses
    Masking tape
    Utility knife
    Straightedge
    Clamps
    Spring loaded center punch
    Cordless drill
    Router
    4' level
    Paintbrush
    Tack rag
    Sandpaper
    Sandpaper block
    Stain (golden pecan)
    One hour finish (sealant/polyurethane)

    Cost and Time: The cost of re-facing old kitchen cabinets is approximately $5,000, and this project should take approximately 18 hours over two days.

    Difficulty Rating: It's rated a 3 on a scale of 1 to 5.

    Day Two

    1. First you'll need to put the hinges on the doors.

      Tip: Take an extra hinge to use as a spacer. Line it up to the bottom edge of the door and take another hinge and line it up right next to the "spacer" hinge (figure A), and you'll know exactly where your hinge should be.

    2. Use a jig so you can easily find the spot to pre-drill the holes for the screws. Place the jig on the bottom of the cabinet; attach it (figure B) and this way you will ensure the same position for each hinge on each door. Host Paul Ryan used a self-centering bit, which you just push in. It not only centers itself in the hardware; it sets the right depth so you won't drill through the door.

      Aesthetic Tip: Most door grains will have a pointed tip (figure C). Be sure to install the doors with the tip either up or down on all the doors. Be uniform either way, but it's generally more pleasing for the tips to be pointing down. (The tips on the doors for this particular project are pointing down.)

    3. Hang the doors, then level them and readjust hinges if necessary. Leveling the doors can be a challenge. They don't always come out perfectly even. You may have to readjust the hinge screws on the inside cabinet edge to synchronize the doors.

      Note: No cabinet door would be complete without shock absorbers. What's a shock absorber (figure D) you may ask? It's a small, white mount that makes the doors close smoothly. It works just like the shocks in your vehicle. These work especially well with cabinet doors that have glass.

      Tip: Remember to use your original kitchen-cabinet drawing as a guide. The doors should be numbered to correspond with the drawing.

    4. The drawer fronts are next. You can use your old boxes, but for our show we ordered new boxes.

    5. If you do order new drawers, lay one of the new drawers on the "old" drawer front (figure E) to get the proper measurements. Take equal measurements on the top, bottom and two sides, and once you have that distance measured, just attach the new front panel, drill pilot holes and clamp it together while you do the attaching. Then screw it on from the back.

    6. Put new drawer slides on the inside boxes.

      Note: There's a huge selection of drawer slides on the market. A lot of older homes have the 3/4-extension slides. Your kitchen remodel may allow you to upgrade to a full extension glide (figure F) that will last a lot longer.

    7. To attach all the drawer and door hardware, host Paul Ryan created an adjustable jig that allowed him to align each piece of hardware.

    8. Attach all hardware and you're done!


    RESOURCES :

    Cabinet Doors, Drawer Fronts, Hinges, Drawer Slides and Veneer

    Cabinet Doors
    Model # Oak
    Style: Berkshire

    Drawer Fronts
    Model # Oak
    Style: Solid Oak

    Hinges
    Model # Bkhinge
    Color: Burnished Brass

    Drawer Slides
    Model # KV1284

    Veneer
    Model # Oak
    Type: PSA


    Woodcabinetdoors.com
    Website: www.woodcabinetdoors.com

    Rockler Woodworking & Hardware Products

    Book: Refacing Cabinets
    Catalog # 90595

    PSA Veneer 24x24
    Catalog # 61269
    Color: Red Oak

    PSA Matte Laminate
    Catalog # 32731
    Color: White

    2-14" Blum low profile drawer slides
    Catalog # 34835

    Five 22" Blum low profile drawer slides
    Catalog # 34876

    Self-centering Bit-Set
    Catalog # 34537
    Fuller Bit & Countersink Set
    Catalog # 70441

    Stop collar for above
    Catalog # 49429

    Stop Collar for above
    Catalog # 49437

    40 knob pulls
    Catalog # 35172

    JIGIT template and Punch for knobs
    Catalog # 35172

    221' lin/ft of 1/4"x2" Solid
    Catalog # Stock
    Color: Red Oak

    65' lin/ft of 1/4"x6" Solid
    Catalog # Stock
    Color: Red Oak

    20' lin/ft of 1 x 8 Solid
    Catalog # Stock
    Color: Red Oak

    Smove Cabinet Door Shock Absorber
    Model # 39921

    Smove Test Block
    Model #: 39930


    Rockler Woodworking & Hardware
    Website: www.rockler.com


    GUESTS :

    John and Mike Lepak
    Woodcabinetdoors.com
    4728 Rice Lake Rd.
    Duluth, MN 55803
    Tollfree Phone: 800-732-0309
    Fax: 218-727-6511
    Email: info@woodcabinetdoors.com
    Website: www.woodcabinetdoors.com
    CFO & COO

    Dennis Wagner
    3639 Nicollete Ave.
    Minneapolis, MN 55406
    Phone: 612-827-3948
    Fax: 612-822-7818
    Email: 714@visi.com
    General Contractor

    Al Wolford
    Rockler Woodworking & Hardware
    4365 Willow Dr.
    Medina, MN 553401
    Phone: 763-478-8334
    Fax: 763-478-8393
    Email: awolford@rockler.com
    Website: www.rockler.com
    Supervisor Technical Support

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