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  • Cutting Board
  • From "Ask DIY"
    episode ADI-513
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    Click here to view a larger image.

    Combining a variety of types of wood can produce a cutting board that you'll be proud to display.

    Click here to view a larger image.

    Figure A

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    Figure B

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    Figure C

    Q: I'd like to make a cutting board. Can you show me how?

    A: (Bruce Johnson, Ask DIY Woodworking expert) Cutting boards are easy to make, especially when you have lots of scrap wood lying around.

    Materials:

    Table saw
    Scrap wood (contrasting woods work well)
    Yellow woodworking glue
    Foam brush
    Bar clamps
    Belt sander with medium-grit sandpaper
    Table saw, radial-arm saw or handsaw
    Mineral oil
    Soft lint-free cloth

    1. Use the table saw to rip wood to a uniform thickness (in our example, the wood was slightly more than an inch thick).

    2. Lay out the pieces of wood for your pattern (I find that using contrasting colors makes for a very attractive cutting board -- I used walnut and cherry for this one). Don't worry if the pieces are of unequal lengths; you can trim them up later.

    3. Once you've arrived at a pattern you like, lay the pieces out in consecutive order and begin gluing. Apply a bead of glue along the side of one piece and spread the glue evenly with a foam brush. Then lay the second piece on top of the first, and repeat the process through all the pieces (figure A). Be sure that the glue is evenly spread to fill in any voids left by the brush.

    4. Carefully lay the board out flat and clamp both ends -- and the middle, if necessary (figure B). If beads of glue squeeze out of the seams, that's a good sign that you've used enough and not too much. Let it dry overnight.

    5. When the glue has dried completely, remove the clamps and use a belt sander with medium-grit sandpaper to smooth the top (figure C).

    6. Square up the ends, using either the table saw, a radial-arm saw or a handsaw. Measure carefully first to be sure the ends are square.

    7. Apply a finish to protect the wood from moisture damage. Be sure to use a nontoxic finish (no varnish, shellac or tung oil); I recommend mineral oil. Pour it on the board and use a cloth to work it into the wood on all sides (be sure to get the ends -- they will really drink up the oil).

      Remember to care for your cutting board properly: don't ever put it in the dishwasher or let it soak overnight. If you do, all those nice boards will come apart!

    Q: I have heard that using denatured alcohol aids in removing sawdust particles from sanded surfaces. Is this good for the wood?

    A: Yes, it is -- and don't worry if it seems to be changing the color of the wood. It will evaporate very quickly and leave no residue behind.

    Q: I'd like to create my own "push stick" for handling materials near the saw. What's a safe design?

    A: I'm glad you realize that this is a necessity. I like to have notches on one end for pushing the wood through and a curved handle so it's comfortable to use.

    Q: I have a raised-panel door that was stained in a humid location. The door has since contracted and left unfinished wood exposed. What can I do?

    A: I use a stain marker to touch up small spots like that. You can make repairs that are so subtle, no one will be any the wiser!


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