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A tile backsplash adds a durable touch of class to your kitchen.
Figure A
Figure B
Figure C
Figure D
To mark where a tile needs to be trimmed, set a full tile in position, and mark where it lines up with the tile above. Then cut the tile with a tile cutter or wet saw.
You can use a ceramic-tile saw, which consists of a round carbide blade in a hacksaw or coping saw, to notch out areas for electrical outlets or other areas where tiles need to be trimmed.
A tile cutter is one of the most common tools for trimming tiles. To use one, lay a tile in the cutter so the round cutter blade lines up on the cut line. Score the tile by pushing the cutter across the tile, then position the handle so that the padded "foot" rests on the glazed surface. When you press down on the handle, the foot snaps the tile in two over a raised area beneath the tile.
If you don't have a tile cutter handy, trim your tiles with a glass cutter and a straightedge. Score the glazed surface along the straightedge. Then lay the tile face up over a raised surface such as a pencil or a couple of nails, and press down on both sides so the tile breaks along a straight line.
A snap cutter is another simple tool for cutting tiles. Some home-improvement centers lend such tools for a few days.
A wet saw gives the straightest, most professional cuts. Its water-cooled diamond-impregnated blade slices readily through tiles. Tile-cutting blades are also available for jigsaws.
Figure E
Figure F
Figure G
Various drill bits are available for cutting tile or glass. Dip the drill bit in turpentine or kerosene to help prevent it from overheating as you use it.
Figure H
Figure I
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If you're thinking of updating some of your kitchen surfaces, consider ceramic tile. It's not only more durable than many surfaces but also practically maintenance-free, waterproof, fire-resistant and inhospitable to germs. Years ago tile was expensive because it was made by hand. Today, however, tile has become much more affordable and can be purchased at home-improvement centers. Many homeowners now use larger tiles, which require fewer grout joints. Smaller tiles, on the other hand, include lugs on each side to create automatic grout joints, eliminating the need for spacers. Other trends include using floor tiles to cover walls, diagonal installation and patterns that combine two or more colors. Before you begin a tile job, spend some time planning the installation so you can minimize the number of cuts you have to make. Materials:
Measuring tape
Screwdrivers
Tile cutter or wet saw
Tile saw (a tungsten carbide blade for a hacksaw or coping saw)
Tile nippers
Notched trowel
Grout float
Wall tiles
Mastic adhesive
Ready-mixed grout
Level
Straightedge
2" x 4" x 2' board wrapped in carpet
Hammer
Sponge
Soft cloth
Caulk gun and silicone caulk
Safety glasses
- Locate and mark the center of the tile installation area (usually a focal point such as the area above the sink or cooking range). Use a level to draw a plumb reference line up and down over the mark.
- Dry-fit a run of tiles to determine where the backsplash should end. You may want to use a layout stick to help determine where the tiles will go (to make one, just lay a 1" by 2" board beside a run of tiles, and mark the grout joints).
- Use a level and a long straightedge to locate the lowest point on the back of the counter (figure A). The lowest point will be the largest gap between the level straightedge and the counter.
- Mark the wall at a height of two tiles from the lowest spot on the counter (figure B). Then use a straightedge and level to extend a reference line at that height (figure C) all the way across the area where you'll be installing the tile (you can't use the countertop for a reference because it isn't necessarily perfectly straight and level).
- Shut off the power to any electrical outlets and switches in the area to be tiled. Remove all the covers, and pull the fixtures away from the wall so they don't interfere with the installation. Pull out any appliances (such as the stove) that might interfere.
- Cover countertop surfaces with heavy paper to protect them from being scratched by loose tiles.
- Begin applying adhesive to the wall. Start at the reference line, and rake the adhesive downward. Then rake upward from the back of the counter. Next, rake the entire area horizontally, making sure the mastic is evenly distributed.
- Start installing the tiles by placing a tile below the reference line so it lines up with both the center mark and the reference line. You should be able to install a full tile directly below your first tile because it's at the low point on the countertop (figure D). You'll probably need to trim the rest of the tiles that butt against the countertop, however.
- Continue installing tiles along the reference line, checking them periodically with a straightedge to make sure you're installing them in a straight line.
- After you've installed all the tiles below the reference line, start placing tiles above the line. Work in a pyramid pattern to make sure the lines are straight (figure E). Press the tiles into the adhesive just enough to hold them in place.
- Once all the tiles are in place, place a carpet-covered board over them and strike it with a hammer to seat the tiles securely (figure F).
- Apply bullnose tiles along the edges of the backsplash. Apply mastic directly to the backs of the bullnose tiles (figure G) rather than to the wall. That way you won't put too much or too little adhesive on the wall.
- After the tiles are in place, allow the mastic to dry for the amount of time recommended by the manufacturer (usually about 24 hours).
- When the mastic is dry, begin applying the grout. Use a rubber grout float, held at a 45-degree angle, to spread it over the tiles (figure H). Spread it in several directions, and force it into the grout joints.
- Wipe away excess grout with a damp sponge. After the grout dries to a haze, buff it clean with a soft cloth.
- Run a bead of caulk along the corner between the countertop and the tiles (figure I).
- Reinstall any electrical fixtures you removed for the installation. You may need to use longer screws because of the added thickness of the tiles. Don't overtighten the screws: you might break the tiles.
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