DIY Network

Old-Windows Restoration: Window-Sash Removal, Trim Restoration and Reassembly From "Restoration Realities" episode DRTR-112

	A craftsman-style cottage built in 1913.
	Before the restoration, the sills showed signs of water damage, rot and softening of wood fibers.
	Media Watch a video recap of this restoration project

DIY's Restoration Realities travels to the historic Indian Village district of Detroit, Michigan, and the home Scooter and Kolleen Jones. The mission is some window repair in their 1913 craftsman-style cottage. This segment focuses on removing the window sashes, repairing some water damage and rotted areas around the window frames and finally reinstalling the restored window sashes.

Tools used in this episode:

Table saw
Compound miter saw
Thickness planer
Belt sander
Random-orbital sander
Speedheater® infrared paint-removal system
Extension cords
Pneumatic finish-nailer
Pneumatic brad-nailer
Air hoses
Air compressor
Heat gun
Chisels
Ladders
Putty knives
Glazing knives
Carbide scrapers
Bar clamps

Materials used in this episode:

Double-strength glass, cut to fit if required
1 gallon glazing compound
Glazer's push points
Boiled linseed oil
Latex window compound
1 gallon two-part polyester resin
Cotton/Polyester blend rope, 1/2" diameter
Oil-based primer
Sandpaper – 80, 120, 220-grits
Exterior latex caulk
Poplar or pine stock for new parting bead

Safety Alert: Always wear eye protection when working with power tools or pneumatic tools.

advertisement

Windows Inspection

Age, water damage and rot have all taken their toll on the 90-year-old windows in this 1913 house. Not only are many of the windows painted shut or difficult to operate, there are signs that the window-stops are deteriorating (figure A) and the sills and are peeling and rotting (figure B). Judging the condition of these, they will likely need to be stripped or possibly replicated.

Figure A

Figure B

Window Sash Removal and Window Prep

• The first step is to remove the damaged window sashes so they can be repaired. Begin by removing the interior stops from the inside of the window. Our restoration specialist scores the paint joint between the wooden interior stop and the window jamb. After easing the interior stop away from the jamb, he uses a pry bar to pull it off completely (figure C). The goal is to remove it intact. Old houses were built of excellent long-lasting materials, so an objective is to save as much as possible.

• With the interior stop removed, free the lower sash and carefully pull it forward (figure D).

• Remove the sash cords from the sides. Carefully lower them inside the window.

  Figure C

  Figure D

  
  

• Inspect the condition of the parting bead (figure E) in the dado-cut center of the window.

• Carefully remove the interior parting bead (figure F). Save the wood for reuse if possible. In our case, one of the parting-beads broke during removal, so would later need to be replicated using replacement wood milled precisely to size.

  Figure E

  Figure F

  
  

• Remove the upper sashes carefully, gently easing them away from the jamb (figure G).

• Cut and remove he sash cords from each side (figure H) and lower the weight down inside the wall-pocket.

• Note: Old double-hung windows move up and down with the assistance of a weight-and-pulley system. The weight, attached to a rope cord and serving as a counter-balance to the weight of the sash itself, typically moves up and down in a "pocket" cut in the frame of the window.

  Figure G

  Figure H

  
  

• Carefully open the sash-weight accesses on either side of the window frame. Remove the window sash weights from the cavities (figure I). Clean and store for re-use. The weights will later be reattached to the restored sashes.

• With the weights removed, begin scraping or stripping the paint from the required surfaces on the interior slides areas, exterior sills, exterior trim. We used a carbide-blade scraper to remove the old, cracked paint (figure J).

  Safety Alert: Old house-paint may have lead in it, which is toxic. Wear a respirator mask when removing old paint to avoid breathing in paint-dust particles.

  Figure I

  Figure J

  
  

• Apply polyester resin or wood hardener to the sills, jambs, trim, or any other pieces as necessary. In our case, there was water damage to the sills, and the wood fibers had become soft and flaked away from some of the surface areas. We used a polyester-resin filler applied to the sill, spreading it thinly and evenly across the surface with a putty knife (figures K and L). We also used wood hardeners on some of the outer areas that had become soft.

  Figure K

  Figure L

  
  

  Note: This type of resin filler hardens quickly. Follow the manufacturer's mixing instructions, and only mix up an amount that you can easily apply in about a 15-minute period, the approximate time it takes for most of these to set up.

• After the material has set up according to the manufacturer's instructions, sand it smooth using a palm sander or random-orbit sander (figure M and N).

  Figure LM

  Figure N

  
  

  Figure O

• If the interior parting bead needs to be replicated, they will need to be ripped and planed at this time.
  Check the exterior parting bead and see if it needs to be replicated. In our case, since one portion of the parting bead broke, we had to recreate it, replicating the dimensions of the original. The dimensions of the old parting bead were taken using a micrometer. A table saw was used to rip the stock to the approximate width. A planer was then used to proper thickness (figure O), using the micrometer measurements, leaving them just slightly thicker than the old parting beads. The slight bit of extra thickness will allow for a tight fit with the newly restored sashes. The new pieces were primed with an oil based primer.
  

  	Figure P
  	Figure Q
  	Figure R

With the window sashes restored and primed, and the window sills and trim restored, the sashes can now be reinstalled. The window weights are the proper weight to counterbalance the weight of the sashes. If attached properly, they allow the sash to move smoothly up and down.

• Feed the new sash cord through the pulleys at the top of the frames. Feed it through to the weight access below (figure P).

  Tip: Tie a nail to the end of the rope to weight it and make it easier to feed the rope down through the opening.

• Tie the window weights off securely. Push the weights back into the pocket, and pull the rope tight.

• Place the upper sash in the opening. Pull the new sash cords down from the side of the jambs. Pull them down to the height of the hole in the side of the sash, tie a square knot firmly into the cord, and trim off any extra sash cord. Place the knot into the hole on the side (figure Q) and secure with either a nail or screw.

• Repeat on the other side.

• With the sash properly in the channels and the weights attached, release the sash to test the weight of the sash weights. Push the upper sash into position (figure R).

• With the top sash in place, position the interior parting-bead pieces into the dado track in the center of the window frame.

• Reinstall the lower sash.

• Re-install the interior stop against the lower sash and adjust as required.

• Caulk, prime and paint as necessary.
  

  	BEFORE the windows restoration. The windows were deteriorated, painted shut, and the paint and glazing was chipped and peeling.
  	AFTER the restoration. The window sashes have been restored and repainted. The sills have been strengthened with wood filler, and the sashes have been re-hung with new weight-cords.

Note: This is a summary of steps included in the procedures shown in this episode of Restoration Realities. There may be variations in procedures for your particular restoration project based on the types of materials you select and the nature or extent of your particular project. Always follow proper safety precautions, and read and follow manufacturer's guidelines, diagrams and safety notices that come with materials or products that you select.

RESOURCES :

Renovating and Restyling Older Homes: The Professional's Guide to Maximum Value Remodeling
Author: Lawrence Dworin
Publisher: Craftsman Book Company
ISBN: 1572180293
Order this title from Amazon.com.

Selecting and Renovating an Old House: A Complete Guide
Author: United States Department of Agriculture
July 2000
Publisher: Dover Publications
ISBN: 0486409562
Order this title from Amazon.com.

Speedheater Infrared (IR) Paint Remover
from Eco-Strip, LLC
The Speedheater Infrared Paint Remover® is a specialized tool for stripping paint or varnish from painted surfaces -- such as exterior facades, windows, doors, wood detailing and other forms of carpentry -- in a safe and environmentally responsible manner. This advanced paint-removal system uses infrared heat to soften paint for faster, cleaner and safer paint removal. It is also helpful for aiding in removal of paint in tight or hard-to-access areas. When used properly, the Speedheater loosens the paint so that it requires little scraping and no sanding for removal. In addition, this system offers a number of specific user and safety benefits: It reduces the need for chemical strippers and other toxic materials. It helps to avoid situations that could produce dangerous lead-dust or lead-gas when removing lead-based paint from old surfaces. It operates at a lower, safer temperature than that of an ordinary heat gun. It saves time and requires less work than some other forms of stripping such as use of a power-sander or heat gun. For more details on this tool and related products, visit the company’s web site:
www.eco-strip.com