It's amazing what a little more light can do for a room. An entire area can be opened up just by replacing smaller windows with a larger one. Jodi Marks from Fix It Up! and her guest, June Gartrell, show how. Installing a Large Window Tools: window
measuring tape
masking tape
safety goggles and gloves
jigsaw
flashlight
pry bars
hammers
utility knife
level
masonry saw or circular saw with masonry blade
reciprocating saw
pneumatic nailer
fiberglass insulation
interior trim and exterior molding
several pieces of 2x4 lumber
silicone caulk
roofing nails Steps: 1. Once the smaller windows (figure A) are removed, you will need a larger space to accommodate the taller window. Measuring for the rough opening is critical. 2. Outside the house, measure for the height and width of the new window. Duplicate the measurements inside the house (figure B), noting any structural obstacles that might hinder the enlargement of the window. 3. Using masking tape, mask off the framing for the width and the height of the rough opening, support framing and the window itself. Do this for both the interior and exterior. Now you know where the window is going and what might be in your way. If you run into duct work, pipe work or electrical wires, you may want to call in a professional to help re-route that for you. Remember to bring the height down, not up, so you won't be jeopardizing the structural integrity of the house. 4. Turn the power off to the room, then drill two pilot holes in the wall. Using a jigsaw, cut the hole large enough to see into with a flashlight (figure C). Always practice safety with safety goggles and gloves. Check to make sure there are no wires you will be cutting through. 5. Score the paint and caulking around the casing. Next, pry the trim off and remove the stool with hammers and pry bars. If necessary, use a hacksaw to remove the face nail. Remove the storm window sashes and window sashes. Outside, pry the brick molding free from the framing members, allowing you to pull the entire unit from the rough opening (figure D). 6. Your next step involves a masonry saw (figure E, right). You may also use a circular saw with a masonry blade in it (figure E, left). Where you have marked off the brick on the exterior, it is a good idea to cut along the joint horizontally--so if the measurement is taped through brick, just drop down slightly to the next joint and cut there. 7. Cover the opening on the interior with plastic to minimize dust. On the exterior, cut into the brick joint with a masonry saw (figure F). Use a hose to keep the brick wet. This will keep the dust down. After the bottom is cut, cut the sides starting at the top and working down (figure G). After the exterior cuts are made, remove the bricks from the wall. Try not to crack the bricks so they can be used for the window base later. Also, if you are using an electrical circular saw do not use water near the saw. 8. Remove the plastic from the opening and use a circular saw to the paneling (figure H) at the marked areas. Use a pry bar to pull the paneling away from the studs. 9. Next, cut and remove the insulation. Using a reciprocating saw, cut down the sides of the 2x4s (cutting through the nails) and then cut through the bottom of the 2x4s (figure I). Remove the section. 10. The next step is creating the bottom framing. Put the sill plate in place and attach it to the studs using sixteenpenny nails (figure J). Next, use 2x4 scraps to make temporary corner braces. Hammer those in (figure K) along with filler blocks along the top and sides. You are now ready to unwrap your window. 11. Bend out the metal mounting fins on the window to a 90-degree angle (figure L). Be sure to have the wood interior frame facing to the interior, and the exterior low-maintenance surface facing to the exterior. Lift the window into place, carefully pushing it into the frame. With a level, check the plumb and level of the window (figure M). Measure on all sides to make sure the window is centered. Temporarily attach the window with a drill and screws. 12. Overlap your wooden shims (available at hardware stores) and insert them under the sill (figure N). Check the level on the sill, then insert the shims in the side and top jam of the window. 13. Once the window is level, plumb and square, use a pneumatic nailer to attach the shims to the jams to secure the window. Outside, use roofing nails to attach the mounting fins to the framing to secure the window (figure O). 14. Fill the area around the window with fiberglass insulation. Attach interior trim and exterior brick molding with the pneumatic nailer (figure P). Use 1-1/4-inch nails for the interior and 2-1/2-inch nails for the exterior. 15. Finally, apply silicone caulk between the brick molding and the bricks. A mason should be called on to brick in the bottom ledge of the exterior wall (figure Q). 16. This project takes two days to complete and costs in the neighborhood of 500 dollars.
RESOURCES :
For More Ideas ...
For more ideas and how-to projects, peruse the topics under REMODELING on the list to your left.
Also be sure to check out HGTV's Complete Fix-It manual, with step-by-step instructions for more than 200 home repairs, fix-ups and projects with detailed, full-color illustrations and pictures. Go to Table of Contents or visit the HGTV store to order the book.
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