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Framing a Sub-Floor and Walls Student Nick Faes begins framing the classroom sub-floor and walls. From "Trade School" episode DTRS-203

Figure A

In this episode of DIY's Trade School, 18-year-old carpentry student Nick Faes and his classmates learn about residential framing. Instead of building a home, these students build a temporary classroom (figure A). Because the temps are designed to be mobile, the class can complete the work inside the large carpentry shop, therefore staying out of the elements. For Nick, participation in this program holds special significance. He wants to become a fourth generation carpenter, following in the footsteps of his father, grandfather and great-grandfather.

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Figure B

Basic Tools:

telescopic transit
hammer
tape measure
quick square
pipe clamps
braces

In this session, the class builds the temporary foundation, sub-floor and walls for the classroom building.

The first step in this process is to establish a level work surface to build on. Aided by a telescopic transit, Nick and his classmates create the temporary foundation for the building with a series of 2" x 4" blocks and shims, and then place three large wooden beams on top of them (figure B). Nick builds rim joints, creating a frame that will be filled with the floor joists.

Because the floor is very wide, the joists are attached to the rims on each end then nailed together in the middle (figure C). The joists also help maintain the width of the building. Before connecting them, Nick uses pipe clamps to either push apart or pull together the joist pairs until the correct measurement is achieved (figure D). Later in the project, the class fits insulation between each joist and secures plywood over the joists to establish the sub-floor.

Figure C

Figure D

Nick can now start framing the walls. The class tackles each of the four walls as a separate section. Nick first lays out the bottom and top plates for one of the walls, indicating where each stud and other support pieces should be attached (figure E). For simplicity, he lays out two extremely long 2" x 4" plates side-by-side. He then separates the two plates, and then nails the pre-built pieces such as the doorframes and corner pieces into place (figure F). While the wall is still lying down, Nick fills the frame with eight foot studs at every 16 inches (figure G). In an area such as a window frame, he uses shorter boards called cripple studs to span the gap (figure H).

Figure E

Figure F

Figure G

With the wall framed out, the next step is to ensure that it's squared. Instructor Michael Daly helps move the wall into position with the bottom plate directly where it will eventually stand. The bottom plate is then temporarily toenailed onto the floor frame. The class then measures the distance between opposite corners (figure I). If the measurements are the same, the wall is square. If not, they’ll use a hammer to tap the top plate until the wall is square.

Figure H

Figure I

Once square, the class sheets the entire surface of the wall (figure J), which keeps it square while giving added strength. The class gathers together to raise the wall into position (figure K). As the wall is raised, the toenails set earlier are partially pulled out, but still hold the bottom of the wall from sliding dangerously out of place. Once vertical, the class secures the wall to the floor. Temporary braces help hold the wall up until the students can raise the remaining walls and tie them together (figure L).

Figure J

Figure K

Figure L

In the next segment, Nick raises the roof then completes the project.