DIY Network

Replacing Ceiling Tiles with Drywall Ceiling -- A DIY Habitat-House Project From "Ask DIY Home Improvement" episode DADH-206

Scott Branscom inspects the newly installed drywall ceiling.

Q (from Justin in Merriam, KS): I have old acoustical tiles attached to my ceiling. I'd like to remove them and replace them with drywall. Can you show me how?

A: (from DIY home improvement experts Scott Branscom) Removing old ceiling tiles is easy, as long as you have a little help. Acoustic tile was popular with home rehabbers in the 1950s and '60s, but they can have a dated look today. Following are the steps for removing ceiling tiles and replacing them with drywall as performed by our Habitat for Humanity volunteers in our project restoration house. It's quite a transformation!

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	BEFORE. Removing the old ceiling tile.
	AFTER. The newly installed ceiling.

Materials:

Drywall lift (optional)
Cordless drill with screwdriver attachment
or screw-gun
Pry bar or claw hammer
Utility knife
Pliers
Drywall square
Tape measure
Putty knife
6" and 10" joint-compound finishing knives
Drywall screws
Drywall tape
Drywall joint-compound (all-purpose and lightweight)
Skimming blade
Paint-roller (3/8" nap) and extender
Sanding stick
Sandpaper
Ladder
Safety equipment:
Dust mask
Safety glasses

	Figure A
	Figure B

Steps:

• First, you'll need to get on a ladder to investigate how your ceiling tiles are attached. If they're glued directly on, it will take some extra effort to remove them. If they were attached to furring strips, the job will be easier. Use a utility knife to score, then a putty knife to loosen and pull loose a tile for inspection (figure A). Fortunately, our tiles had been attached using furring strips.

• Now you can begin removing tiles. First, remove the old crown molding, then use a pry bar or claw-hammer to pull the old tiles loose (figure B). This goes faster with two people or more, working on ladders from various points of the room -- working until they meet in the center.

• Use a pair of pliers to pull the old staples from the furring strips. Make sure the strips are left smooth. Anything left on them could create a bump in the drywall when it's installed.

• Reinforce the furring strips by driving screws through them, and into the ceiling joists.
  

• Take measurements to determine how much drywall you'll need (figure C). The objective with accurate measurements is to use as few boards as possible, and to make sure the ends of each drywall board are attached to furring strips.

• To cut the drywall to fit, mark the length using a drywall square as a guide (figure D), and score the line with a utility knife. Then walk behind the drywall and snap it to break the core along the scored line. Remember to trim the paper.

  Figure C

  Figure D

  
  

  	Figure E
  	Figure F

• Using a drywall lift will make the next phase of the project much faster and easier. It greatly simplifies the job of lifting the drywall sheets into place. Drywall lifts like this can be rented from rental center and some home centers.

• One person helps hold the board against the ceiling while two others drive in drywall screws 8 to 12 inches apart (figure E).

• It's important to line up the long-side edges. The side-edges are tapered for smoother joints.

• The ends of the drywall panels are flat, and will require a little more skill when "mudding."

• Orienting the panels with staggered end-seams help achieve a smooth finish for the drywall ceiling.

• Continue working in this manner until the last drywall panel is put into place (figure F).
  

Use drywall screws rather than nails for securing drywall. Screws are less likely to pop out later on. For installing ceiling drywall, 1-5/8" screws (figure G) are recommended.

A cordless screw-gun (figure H) helps speeds things along, and typically costs less than $200. You can rent one as well.

Safety Alert: Be sure to wear safety glasses when using a screw-gun.

Figure G

Figure H

If you don't have a screw-gun, you can use an ordinary cordless drill fitted with a dimpling tool (figure I).

The dimpling tool (figure J) sets the proper depth so that the screw "dimples" just below the surface of the drywall without breaking the paper.

Figure I

Figure J

Concealing the Seams

• The most complex part of the job is finishing the drywall to hide the joints where the panels meet. You'll need plenty of drywall compound and drywall tape. Also make certain that you have both 6" and 10" joint-compound finishing knives (figure K).

• Use the 6" knife to apply a coat of all-purpose joint compound (or "mud") to the joint (figure L). Then center the tape in the mud and cover it with another thin layer of joint compound.

  Figure K

  Figure L

  
  

• Once you have all the joints covered (figure M), allow the compound to cure overnight.

• For the second coat, spread lightweight joint compound using the 10" knife. Also use the joint compound to conceal the screw-heads.

• Again, let the compound cure for 24 hours.

  Tip: For the second coat, "feather" the joint by applying more pressure on the outside of the blade than the inside. This helps to conceal the bump created by the tape and mud.

• For the third and final coat (figure N), the process is the same. Feather the joint, and put a final coat over the screw-heads. Allow it to cure overnight.

  Figure M

  Figure N

  
  

  	Figure O
  	Figure P

• After the final coat covering the joints has dried, skim and sand the ceiling. To skim, roll on a very thin coat of compound using a paint roller, then skim off the excess using a skimming blade (figure O). A 24" skimming blade covers a wide area, which makes for less sanding later on.

• Once the skim coat has dried, lightly sand the ceiling using a sanding stick (figure P). Be sure to wear a dust mask when sanding.
  

Safety Tip: If you're concerned about your ceiling tiles, and whether they may contain asbestos, have them tested by your local environmental authority.

To learn about how you can volunteer to help Habitat for Humanity in your community, go to www.diynetwork.com/habitat. Follow the instructions to enter your zip-code and locate volunteer opportunities near you.

RESOURCES :

HGTV's Complete Fix-It
Author: HGTV