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  • Install Custom Wainscoting: Prep Work
  • From "Weekend Remodeling"
    episode WKR-212


    PHOTO

    In this week's episode of Weekend Remodeling, host Fuad Reveiz will transform an ordinary dining room -- seen here -- into a warm, beautiful setting by giving ...
    PHOTO

    it the rich, classic look of oak frame-and-panel wainscoting!
    This is an intermediate level project and rated 4 on a "difficulty" scale from 1 to 5, with 5 being the most difficult.

    In this first segment, host Fuad Reveiz prepares the dining room for the customized wainscoting installation.

    Materials:

    1/4" oak plywood
    1x6 base molding
    1x4 framing
    1x2 chair rails
    Conditioner for stain
    Stain
    Putty
    Polyurethane
    Pry bar
    Miter saw
    Circular saw
    Jig saw
    4' level
    Brad nailer
    Finish nailer
    Chalk line
    Router and cabinetry bits
    Framing square
    Hammer
    Caulk gun
    Tape measure
    Palm sander
    Painters tape
    Rags
    Sanding block
    Bucket
    Brush
    advertisement


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    Figure A
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    Figure B
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    Figure C
    Note: Just line in the old days, Reveiz is going to build the custom wainscoting from scratch -- almost!

    The first part of this project is to try to determine the style and look of the wainscoting once it's up. Whenever you're planning a remodeling project like this, it sometimes helps to make a drawing of exactly what you have in mind, and there are some computer programs available that create various color images of your project.

    Even though the dining room Reveiz is remodeling (figure A) may look standard, there are four different moldings so our host has to figure out where the starting and stopping points are. And for this particular job, we're going to leave the door casing alone because it ties together with the crown molding at the top of the walls. Let's get started.

    Prepping the Room

    1. First you'll need to remove all of the furniture from the room to have plenty of room to work.

    2. Begin by scoring the top and bottom edges of the chair rail with a utility knife (figure B).

    3. Also score the mitered corners and the ends that butt up to the door casings to make it easier to remove.

    4. Slip a flat pry bar behind the chair rail and pull it off the wall (figure C), and work around the room removing the chair rail and base molding.

      Tip: Always work "below" the chair-rail line. That way, if you do mar the walls, it will be covered by the new wainscoting anyway. And be sure to take your time. You don't want to create more damage and more work for yourself

    5. The last thing you need to do to prep the room is to scrape away the old wallpaper that was left underneath the chair rail.

    Now you have a blank canvas to work on!
    PHOTO

    Figure D
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    Figure E
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    Figure F
    Planning the Layout and Spacing of the Framing

    The horizontal framing -- or the rails -- goes from corner to corner, which is a no-brainer. But we do have to figure out the spacing for the panels and the vertical framing -- or the stiles. And there are a couple of outlets in the room to consider as well. The outlets need to fall on a panel instead of a frame. Our host will have to crunch a few numbers to get it just right.

    1. Start by measuring 5-1/2" off the floor, and then use a level to draw a line where the new base molding will go (figure D).

    2. Measure the height of one of the dining-room chairs and determine that you want the chair rail to be 41" off the floor. So measure up the wall in one location, and use a level to mark the second horizontal line (figure E).

    3. With both the base molding and chair-rail lines drawn, measure the length of the walls to determine the size of the panels. Divide the length of the shorter wall by four to determine that 18-7/8" wide panels will space evenly.

    4. Mark the vertical lines with a level to keep them plumb.

      Note: The stiles will hide the seams of the panels, so their location is critical to the layout.

    5. The longer wall next to the kitchen requires five panels at 21-1/4" wide. This is as close as we could get them in size to the other wall and not have a partial panel.

    6. Once all the walls are marked (figure F) you can see where the outlets are going to land and make sure you're happy with the layout.

    We're halfway through the first day of this level 4 intermediate remodeling project. In the next segment it's time to cut, stain and install the panels.

  • ALSO IN THIS EPISODE: