DIY Network

Faux Tin Ceiling Faux Tin Ceiling From "Ask DIY Decorating & Crafts" episode DADD-110

Q: I need an idea for camouflaging a cracked ceiling. I like the look of tin but don't want anything that bright. Do you have any ideas?

A: (Ask DIY design expert Bea Pila) I'm so glad you're thinking of doing something different and unusual on the ceiling. So many people forget about the ceiling in their decorating, and it can really serve as a focal point of the room. And the technique I'm going to show you today hides cracks and flaws and also looks like a painted tin ceiling.

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You could just put up real tin and paint it. Ceiling tins are beautiful, but the original tins are heavy and hard to find. The newer tins aren't as heavy but can be costly. But don't despair: you're dream of a painted tin ceiling isn't dashed. Today I'm going to show you how to create a faux tin ceiling. I'm going to use embossed, paintable wallpaper and pearlized paint to create a painted tin look, and then I'm going to finish off the room with some beautiful crown molding.

Steps:

1. First you'll need to choose your wallpaper -- there are many embossed designs available today. Then, as with any wallpapering project, prep work is vital. So first you must clear the room, getting out as much of the furniture as you can, then cover up what's left and cover the floor.

2. It's also a good idea to take down any light fixtures too, as it's easier to cut the opening for the light when the fixtures aren't there.

3. Then you want to prime the ceiling (priming helps the glue adhere better and also makes it easier to remove the paper later). The primer takes up to 45 minutes to dry. You'll also want to rent a walk-board or a device like the one our hangers used in the broadcast so that you can walk across the room at the right height you need to be to hang the paper.

4. Now, here's a pro's trick to speed up hanging time: cut all your sheets at once. Line up each one to match the pattern and then cut the paper to length (remember to allow extra paper for trimming). For our ceiling we needed seven lengths of paper.

5. We're using prepasted paper, so the next step is to get it wet. Our professional paperhangers recommend dipping a roller in a bucket of water and then rolling the water onto the paper. This is a balancing act: you don't want too much water, and you don't want too little. You'll know you have enough water when the paper feels slimy -- that's the glue starting to work.

6. The next step is to "book" the paper (that's a wallpaper-hanging term). To do it, fold the ends of a strip of paper over, making sure that they meet in the middle and that the starting end is on the outside. You'll also need to let the paper set for 5 to 15 minutes (check the manufacturer's instructions for the recommended time for your paper).

7. You'll want to be precise with your waiting period: the paper expands when it's wet, and you want each piece to expand by the same amount. And if you leave the paper soaking for too long, it'll get too soft to use.

8. Now it's time to "hang" the paper (you'll want to bring in a friend for this, as it's very difficult to put paper on a ceiling by yourself).

9. Line up your first strip with the wall as your guide to keep in straight. Then one person holds the paper while the other pulls it away and starts to hang it on the ceiling. Use your hands to push the paper to the edge and then use a wallpaper brush to remove bubbles. Put the edge of a 6" blade in the corner and then trim with a sharp knife.
   
   
10. For the second sheet, we need to match the pattern. Butt the pieces together carefully and once the pattern is matched as closely as possible, smooth out the rest of the paper. Then smooth down the seam with a wallpaper roller -- but don't press too hard, because that could smash the embossed design of the paper.

11. Continue across the ceiling in the same way, blotting up excess adhesive along the seams and on the walls as you move along.

12. For the last strip of paper, measure the distance left to cover and then cut the paper to size before hanging (remembering to leave add an inch or two for trimming).

13. After 24 hours you can paint the wallpaper. It's really like painting anything else. You'll want to use a long-nap roller so the paint gets into the embossed design. The paint is forgiving and will hide tiny seams that are showing, but you won't be able to cover up any big wallpapering errors. We used a light-gray paint and then applied a second coat with a pearlized translucent paint. It lightened the gray color and gave the ceiling its shine.

14. Our final step was to install crown molding. The walls are 8' high, and the ceiling is a focal point, so we choose a simple one-piece 4-1/2" crown molding. And to make it really easy, use corner pieces. Then all you have to do is cut the molding to the length of the wall and attach it with finishing nails (to speed the process, rent an air nailer). Finally, fill any gaps with caulk and cover the nail marks with putty and paint.

So there you have it: a tin ceiling without the tin! Can you really tell the different between the two? I'll bet no one else can, either!