DIY Network

Top of the Class From "DIY to the Rescue" episode DTTR-206

With the walls repaired, host Amy Devers and homeowner Kevin Green install a suspended ceiling. Later, host Karl Champley and Kevin install new lighting for the room.

Materials:

Straight edge
Framing or combination square
2' - 4' level
Handsaw
Sharp utility knife
Ladder
Face mask
Hammer
Safety goggles
Chalkline
Drill
Pencil
String
Pliers
Wire
Aviation snips
(6) 12' main tees (may vary according to your room measurements)
(45) 4" cross teses (may vary according to your room measurements)
Suspension wire
(30) 2' x 4' ceiling tiles

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	Figure A
	Figure B
	Figure C
	Figure D
	Figure E

1. The Greens had an old drop ceiling that was previously removed. Since fasteners and wires are already in place, the crew is going straight to the new grid system installation for a new suspended ceiling.

2. First, hanger wires are replaced (figure A) as needed. The wires are threaded up and through holes the joists, then secured by looping and wrapping the end around the extended piece of wire.

3. The fasteners -- which are already in place -- are positioned about every 4 feet in the joists. Amy shares a trick to make sure the ceiling is level: measure up 7/8" inch from the bottom of the wall molding on one side of them room. Drive a nail into the wall and repeat for the other side of the room. Stretch a string between the two. This is a straight and level line that the hanger wires need to be even with. Next, using the string as a guide, bend the hanger wires at 90-degree angles wherever the wire touches the string. Repeat along the entire row of fasteners. This technique should be repeated on every row of the main beams to create a level ceiling.

4. The main beams (the rows of the grid running perpendicular to the original ceiling joists) will be the main supports for the new suspended ceiling. To trim the main beam, measure to size, then subtract 1/8" from the length to allow for thickness of the wall angle. Use tin snips to cut the beam (figure B). Note: the main beams will be spliced in rooms that are wider than 12'. To splice the beams, use the snap-in connections on the ends of the beams to connect the two pieces. Be sure that a hanging wire is positioned on either side of the splice.

5. With the main beams in place, it's time to fit the cross tees (the 4' pieces that will be mounted between the main beams to support the ceiling tiles). To ensure the grid is square, take a diagonal measurement of the 2' x 4' openings. If the measurement is the same, the grid is square. Connect the cross tees to the main beams (figure C)

6. To fit the tiles, lift each at an angle, then drop into place (figure D). If tiles need to be cut, use a straight edge and razor knife to make the cut with the tile face-up (figure E).