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Utility Room with Rotating Shelves More space – and better organization – transform a cramped utility room. From "Wasted Spaces" episode DWSP-209

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Karl and Jill aren’t done with their demolition: In addition to removing a full wall, the pair break through a second wall to create a pass-through with a rotating set of shelves. The also tie the expanded room together by installing a new floor.

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Creating the Pass-Through Opening

	Figure A
	Figure B
	Figure C

• Use a pencil and straight edge to mark the wall section to be removed. The section should have a solid wall stud at the left and right. Make sure the lines are level and plumb.

• Remove any wood trim from the knock-through area.

• Score the drywall with a utility knife (figure A). Spread a plastic tarp to catch debris.

  Wearing safety glasses, a dust mask and work gloves, break through the drywall with a hammer and pull it away from the studs.

  Tip: When breaking a hole in a wall, it can be helpful to start close to the scored edge. Pound through the sheetrock inside the scored line, then peel the material away from the line.

• Cut through the studs in the knock-through area with a reciprocating saw or a hand saw (figure B).

  Safety Alert: Wear safety glasses and use extreme caution when working with any power tools. Reciprocating saws have a strong "kick back" action; make sure you can control one safely.

• Use a hand saw to cut away any excess drywall.

• Cut a piece of 2x4 lumber to fit between the studs at the top of the wall cutout. Draw two diagonal lines from corner to corner on this piece to find the center; wearing safety glasses, drill a hole through the center large enough to accommodate the 1-3/4" copper pipe. The pipe will fit through this piece to help steady the shelving unit. Nail this top piece into place, attaching it to the wall studs at each end, to close off the top of the cutout (figure C).

• If too much drywall came away during demolition, cut and attach new pieces of drywall to square up the corners and edges. Use a crimper and rubber mallet about every six inches to give the wall a finished look.

• Install trim around the top and sides of the opening. The fixed shelving unit will finish off the bottom edge.

• This also is a good time to fix any irregularities in the walls. To do this, use a hammer to create a depression at the irregularity. Fill the depression with drywall patching compound and smooth it down to the wall. Once the compound is dry, finish with mesh tape and another layer of drywall patch. Let dry and sand smooth.

• Prime and paint the walls as desired.

Installing the New Floor

• Remove the old flooring from the room. For this project, Karl and Jill removed old, unwanted carpeting. Use a pry bar to pull up the carpet’s tacking strips and any other transition pieces.

• Remove the baseboard molding and set aside.

• Make sure the floor is level with the adjoining floor in the other room. The floor in the project room was too low, so Karl and Jill raised it by installing plywood subfloor. Secure the plywood in place with wood glue and nails.

• Position a layer of foam padding on the subfloor. Use the foam padding recommended for the type of laminate floor used. Since this is a "floating" floor – not directly attached to the subfloor – the padding will dampen sound and compensate for any irregularities in the floor.

  Tip: These are typical installation instructions for laminate flooring. Make sure to carefully read and follow the specific manufacturer’s instructions for the laminate you install; there may be slight differences in the installation.

• To install the laminate flooring, remove any baseboard molding and position the first row of against the wall with the grooved sides of the boards to the outside. Place spacers between the first row of boards and the wall to allow for the wood’s natural expansion.

• Position the first board for the next row and tap into place. Use a hammer and tapping block to ensure a tight fit and prevent damage to the flooring. Continue fitting boards and tapping them into place until the floor is installed. Use a circular saw or table saw to cut the boards as needed.

• Once the entire floor is in place, remove the spacers. Re-install the baseboard molding to cover the gaps between the floor and the walls.

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