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Build Easy Storage Shelving Follow these easy steps to solve storage problems in the garage, basement or workshop.

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By Mark Clement and Theresa Coleman

	Photo 9
	Photo 10

Making the L shelf

The L shelf has two diagonal wall-legs supporting the outside ends, while a diagonal brace carries the corner. Two sides and two front pieces tie the whole thing together. (Photo 9.)

The shelf here has an 18-inch deep shelf surface that works nicely for everything from toys to tools. Shelf depth determines the sizes of the framing.

Materials

• Five pieces 2"x4"x8'
  
• Two pieces 2"x6"x8'
  
• One piece 1/2" plywood
  
• Fasteners

Layout and Installation
1. Cut one 2x4 93 inches long; cut another 2x4 91-1/2 inches long. These are the ledgers.

2. Cut two pieces of 2x4 16-1/2 inches long. These are the side supports.

3. Cut the left and right legs, each 21-1/2 inches long. Clip both corners off the top of the leg.

4. Determine shelf height(s) and strike level lines on each wall (see Photo 4). Extend the lines to 8 feet.

5. Install the 93-inch ledger first (Photo 10). Butt the 91-1/2-inch ledger into the 93-inch ledger and fasten.

Photo 11

6. Install the sides: Set one screw, then use a level to position the side level. Sink the second screw (Photo 11). Tip: It helps to have the screws already started so you don't have to fumble with them. A helper is also a good idea here.

Photo 12

7. Cut and lay plywood shelf surfaces on the frame (Photo 12). Do not fasten them down yet.

8. Measure for the cross-brace. The cross brace in our shelf system is 45 inches long on the longer side. However, this length is contingent on shelf depth. If you build a different shelf depth than ours, the key is to measure carefully. Use 45 inches as a guideline for making yours smaller or larger. The goal is for the cross brace to support as much of each individual shelf piece as possible. It's also good to keep each end of the cross-brace equidistant from the wall corner. Sometimes cutting a cross-brace that fits just right takes a few tries.

Photo 13

9. Whatever the measurement, that's the diagonal cross brace's long-to-long measurement. Measuring Tip: Cut a 45-degree miter off one end of a 2x4. Pull your tape from its long point to whatever your measurement is. Mark that, knowing it is the long point of the second miter so you can cut accordingly.

10. Install the diagonal cross brace (Photo 13). Measure out equally from both corners so it is centered.

Photo 14

11. Measure along the edges of the shelves, then remove them. Make the front supports by cutting a 2x4 to the shelf measurements. Install the front supports (Photo 14).

Photo 15

12. Replace and install the plywood shelf surfaces (Photo 15).

13. If you're installing on drywall over stick framing, add bottom braces: 2x6's that lie flat on the wall between the wall legs and the corner. First, they're a safety feature: Unless each wall leg is bearing directly on a wall stud, we need to spread out the shelf's load. To do this, fasten through the leg into the bottom brace, thereby transferring the load over several studs.

Second, you can set hooks or nails along the bottom brace — you can even install a 2x8 sub-shelf on top of it — and hang anything from a roll of tape to a shovel to a beach chair.

To make the bottom brace, measure under the shelf between the wall leg and the corner. Cut a 2x6 to fit. If you can, get a helper to hold the 2x6 flat against the wall while you screw from the outside of the wall leg into the end of the 2x6, and through the 2x6 into the studs along its length.

Photo 16

The I-Shelf

Making an I shelf is a simple adjustment to the L shelf. Since an I shelf has no corner to support it, you omit the V-brace and instead install another leg assembly. No fuss, no muss.

If you expand the I's dimensions — make it about 24 inches wide and about 36 inches off the floor, as we did — it makes an awesome workbench, potting table, craft center, you name it. For this application, we routed a small bevel on the edges so it was more comfortable to work at (Photo 16). Instead of 1/2-inch CDX plywood as a surface, we used a nice sheet of 3/4-inch birch plywood. Sweet.

Mark Clement is a remodeler and author of The Carpenter's Notebook and The Kid's Carpenter's Workbook, Fun Family Projects! Find out more at www.TheCarpentersNotebook.com.

Theresa Coleman is a freelance writer and editor who specializes in residential construction and DIY topics. She is the author of Do-It-Yourself Home Improvement, Black & Decker Complete Guide to Shelves & Built-Ins and the Build It! card game.

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