DIY Network

Mud Room: Building the Frame From "Weekend Remodeling" episode WKR-302

A mud room is a great way to store and organize your families every day coats, as well as specialty items for sports and hobbies.

Although traditionally a feature in homes of the northern states, the mud room has become a practical addition to many modern homes. From coast-to-coast, active families are using the rooms to organize clothing and gear for hobbies, sports, recreation and daily living. Here, host Fuad Reveiz will demonstrate the construction of a mud room, step-by-step.

On a scale of 1-5, with 5 being most difficult, this project rates a 3.

Materials:

2 x 4, 2 x 2 and 1 x stock
Clothing rods
Beadboard paneling
Various trim pieces
Bench lumber
Pre-hung door
Drywall and drywall tape
Drywall mud (joint compound)
Sandpaper
Screws
Vinyl floor tiles
Caulk
Paint and painting supplies
Chalk Board
Coat Pegs
Baseboard heater
Trowel
Pry bar
Tape measure
Chalk line
Reciprocating saw
Hammer
Utility knife
Circular saw
Miter saw
Drill
Framing square
Framing nailer
Trim nailer

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	Figure A
	Figure B
	Figure C
	Figure D
	Figure E
	Figure F
	Figure G
	Figure H
	Figure I

1. This mud room will be built as a room in the garage at the entry to the kitchen. Your own mud room can be a converted screened porch, a laundry room or existing area. To get started, Reveiz must first have a plan in hand.

2. To start construction of the framing, Reveiz measures 3-3/4" from the existing end wall, then uses a long straight edge to mark 6' away from the mark on both sides. Chalk lines are snapped to indicate placement of the walls.

3. The sole plates are marked out, then the stud location -- 16" on-center -- is marked.

4. The lumber is cut and the first wall is assembled using a framing nailer, before being anchored to the existing wall.

5. The second wall is built the same as the first, but with framing added for the door, as well as a header and some blocking.

6. The last wall is simpler than the first two, because it just spans the area between the two other walls and has no special features to be measured and cut. The final wall is positioned (figure A) and secured to the other two.

7. Dividers are planned for the interior of the room. These dividers will allow separation of clothing and equipment, and will house a shelf and clothing rod. The dividers are framed the same as the other walls (figure B), anchored to the existing interior wall (figure C), then anchored to the concrete floor with masonry screws.

8. With the walls framed, drywall is used to cover both the inside and outside studs. To save time, the inside walls will be covered with beadboard; the outside will be finished with joint compound and painted.

9. Reveiz shares a trick for installing drywall alone. Start two nails at the edge of a sheet of drywall. Lift the drywall with one hand, sliding it into place, and using the other hand to sink the nails and secure the sheet (figure D).

10. For the long wall, the drywall is added, checked for plumb and square, and a long diagonal brace is added (figure E). Once the entire wall is covered by drywall, the brace is removed.

11. With the drywall in place, a rotary tool is used to remove the drywall from the doorway (figure F).

12. Joint compound is applied to the seams and nail holes on the exterior drywall. On each seam, a layer of joint compound is applied, followed by tape and another coat of mud. A wide putty knife should be used to smooth the compound after application (figure G).

13. Next, a cornerbead tool is used to help install the cornerbead (figure H). A few screws are added to hold the piece in place on the outer wall corners, then a layer of joint compound is applied to the full length of the cornerbead (figure I).

With the walls up, the next step is hanging the beadboard paneling and installing the vinyl floor tiles.