DIY Network

Materials (for total project):
Staple gun
Staples
Tape measure
2 x 4s
Ladders
200 Balusters
Chop saw
Paint
Paint sprayer
Reciprocating saw
Pencil
Power drill/driver
Spade bit
Miter saw or hand saw
Wood glue
Gloves
Goggles
Dust mask

	Figure A
	Figure B
	Figure C

Measuring and Cutting Balusters

1. First, measure the old balusters and from the bottom of the sill late (which is slightly under floor level) to the underside of the handrail (figure A). In this example, the measurement is 33-1/2". Never assume that the measurement is the same all the way around. Be sure to take this measurement at several places.

2. Mark the measurement onto the new balusters and add 1/2" (for the fitting of the baluster into the round hole) for a total measurement of 34".

3. To prevent the measuring and marking for all 200 of the new balusters, host Karl Champley offers a tip: create a jig by clamping a piece of wood onto the back fence of the saw and slide it down to the stopper (figure B). This will allow you to cut all of the balusters to the same length.

4. Slide each baluster into the saw and cut (figure C). After cutting the top, cut about 1/8" off the bottom to help each slip into the sill plate easier. Repeat the cuts until finished.

1. First, place staples about 4" apart into the first 2 x 4. Set the stapler so that the staples don't drive all the way into the wood. Also, be sure to set the staples far enough apart to give the balusters ample room during painting.

2. Next, staple into the dowel end of each baluster so that only one side of the staple goes into the wood. This should allow a hook to be created.

3. Continue this process with the two by fours until you have 200 stapled hooks on your 2 x 4s -- one for each baluster.

4. To create a work frame, use ladders as corners or end supports. Fill the middle horizontally -- and the sides -- with the stapled 2 x 4s.

5. Hang the balusters in rows onto the 2 x 4 frame (figure D). Make sure none of the balusters touch and that you have access to both sides for even coverage.

6. Fill the sprayer with the manufacturer's recommended type of paint (in this example, latex is used). Keep in mind that oil-based paint cannot be used with many types of sprayers.

7. Begin applying an even coat of paint to each side of the ballusers and allow to dry thoroughly before installation (figure E, figure F).

1. When adding balusters, carefully measure between the existing balusters and make a mark for drilling.

2. Use reciprocating saw or hand saw to remove the existing balusters. Cut through the center of each baluster, then remove each section of the baluster by pulling from the top and bottom holes.

3. Karl's tip: Use blue electrical tape figure G) to mark your spade bit at the correct depth needed for drilling. Use the spade bit to drill holes in handrail (figure H) and bottom seal plate to set new balusters. Drill the hole slightly deeper than length of balusters to allow them to slide in and drop easily into place -- but avoid drilling through the handrail.

4. Use glue on both ends of the new baluster -- and in the holes -- before setting into place (figure I).