DIY Network

Stopping Stair Squeaks From "Complete Fix-It" episode CFI-106

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Note: Illustration A, Illustration B, Illustration C, Illustration D,
available using

Materials:

Hammer
Nails
Drill and bits (1/8", 1/4", 3/32")
Wood chisel
Nail set
Putty knife
Utility knife
2 1/2" finishing nails
2 1/4" finishing screws
#12 3" wood screws
Wood putty
Wax or a candle
2" x 2" wood blocks
Construction adhesive

Nailing the Tread Down

1. With a helper standing on the tread, drill 3/32-inch pilot holes angled through the tread and into the riser at the point of movement (illustration A, click above to view). If the squeak comes from the ends of the tread, angle the holes in the carriage.

2. Drive 2-1/2-inch finishing nails into the holes, sink the heads with a nail set, and fill the holes with wood putty.

3. If the tread spring is too great for nails to close, drill pilot holes as before and secure the tread with 2-1/2-inch trim-head screws. Apply paraffin wax to the threads to make the screws turn easily in oak. Countersink the heads and fill the holes with wood putty.

1. Remove the scotia molding under the tread nose, and insert a knife into the tread joints in order to discover the kind of joints that were used. With butt joints ( illustration B, left, click above to view), the knife will slip vertically into the joint behind the tread and horizontally under the tread; with rabbet (illustration B, center, click above to view) or tongue-and-groove joints (illustration B, right, click above to view), the knife-entry directions are reversed.

2. Drive sharply tapered hardwood wedges coated with wood glue into the cracks as far as possible, depending on your type of joint.

3. Cut off the wedges' protruding ends with a utility knife; replace the scotia molding. Use shoe molding to cover joints at the back of the treads.

1. If the joint has old blocks underneath that have come partly unstuck, pry them off with a screwdriver or putty knife and scrape the dried glue off the tread and riser.

2. Spread glue on two sides of a 2x2 block of wood that is about 3 inches long. Press the block into the joint between the tread and the riser, and slide it back and forth a little to strengthen the glue bond.

3. Drill pilot holes and drive 2-inch wood screws (not all-purpose or drywall screws) in each direction (illustration C, click above to view).

1. About 2 inches below the tread, chisel a shallow notch into the carriage. With a helper standing on the tread, drill a 1/8-inch pilot hole angled at about 30 degrees through the notch and 3/4 inch into the tread (illustration D, click above to view). Then use a 1/4-inch bit to enlarge the hole through the carriage only.

2. With the helper off the tread, spread a bead of construction adhesive along both sides of the joint between the tread and the carriage, and work it into the joint with a putty knife.

3. Have the helper stand on the tread again, and drive a 3-inch-long #12 wood screw.

Note: To order the new HGTV's Complete Fix-It book, see Resources, below.

Illustrations (Copyright) Time-Life Books 2000.

RESOURCES :

HGTV's Complete Fix-It
Author: HGTV