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Building a Backyard Half-pipe Michael Strahan and carpenter Amy Wynn Pastor build a skateboard half-pipe for a skateboard-loving family. From "Backyard Stadiums" episode DBYS-101

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4. With the radius cut, it's time to assemble the ramps. Refer to side elevation on the plans. You'll need at least four people to help you with this part of the project: two to hold the plywood sides and two to screw the joists in place.

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5. Prepare 12 of the 94-1/2" 2 x 4's to use as joists on the ramp. Take two of the side pieces that were cut earlier with a jigsaw and line them up in parallel. As a starting point, measure down from the cut out for the coping pit (where the arch begins) 8" and secure the first joist using 2"-3" deck screws. Continue adding joists every 8". Be sure to double the joists at 48". That's where you have to connect two sheets of plywood. In addition, add joists at the rear and front of the top deck. Remember the joist at the front corner of the deck serves as the back shelf for the coping pipe and its placement is critical, as is the first joist at the top of the curve, which serves as the base for the shelf. These should be placed so as to form a right angle where the grinding pipe will be placed.

Note: Refer to the detail on the plans for the exact measurement.

NFL great Michael Strahan gets busy preparing and...

...cutting the wood for the Backyard Stadiums skateboarding half-pipe.

6. At this time also install the deck joists (2 x 4 x 33). Once you've finished the first ramp, repeat steps on second, third and fourth ramps (figures A, B and C).

Figure A

Figure B

Figure C

	Figure D
	Figure E

7. Once the skeletons of the ramps are completed, move them (figure D) over to the plot of land and place them on the cinder blocks at both ends. Every step from this point on must be completed with the ramps in position on the cinderblocks. Once the ramps are positioned correctly on the cinder blocks, build the frame for the transition or flat section.

8. The transition is 8' long. Use two 96' 2 x 4's to form the outer frame, and nine 94-1/2' joists. Once the 8' 2 x 4's are secured, measure 12" on center (O.C.) to connect the joists using 3' galvanized deck screws, just as you did for the ramps.

Carpenters Tip: When laying out the position of the joists, draw a line at the 12" mark and put an "X" to the right of the line (throw the X to the right). The X is the center and the straight line is now the edge mark for the joist. When you're ready to secure the joists, place the edge of the 2 x 4 on the line and drill the screw into the X (figure E).

9. Once the framing is complete you have to connect the coping pipe. The coping pipe must be run the entire width of the ramp and must be smooth and seamless. You'll need two 16', 1-1/2" black steal pipe, which can be sourced at most plumbing supply stores.

10. Make sure the pipe is cut to the proper length. Drill the holes that will hold it in place. You'll need to drill two holes in each pipe on the same side, 20" in from each end.

Tip: Don't go through both sides of the pipe because you'll want one side smooth for grinding.

11. Start with a 1/4' pilot hole then another 5/8' hole. Place the pipe in place and mark the location of the holes into the coping sill area (rear 2 x 4 on ramp). Drill out the 2 x 4 with two 5/8' holes, secure coping with anchor bolts. Once the piping is in place and the bolts run through the back, make sure they are secured with washers and nuts.

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