DIY Network

Wet. Leaky Basement Ed the Plumber solves the common problem of basement leaks. From "Ed the Plumber" episode DETP-413

Ed Del Grande shows how to eliminate and prevent dampness in a basement.

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Tools and materials:

heavy-duty plastic
masking tape
leaf guards
gutter extensions
splash guards
hammer
cold chisel
stiff-bristled brushes
trowel
plastic bucket for mixing
small can of hydraulic cement
dehumidifier with a condensation pump
cement coating
waterproof paint

The first step in drying out a wet, leaky basement is to find the source of the moisture. This simple test, using plastic wrap and masking tape, will help determine whether wetness is coming from inside or outside the foundation.

1. Tape the plastic wrap tightly to a discolored area of the foundation.

2. If the wetness is on the inside of the plastic, you may have a case of the "killer Gs": gutter (figure A) and grading (figure B) problems.

Figure A

Figure B

Figure C

• Routinely check the condition of your gutters. Keep them clear of debris and add gutter extensions to the downspouts (figure C) (see steps 4-6, below).

• For grading, make sure water is properly diverted away from the foundation of your house.

3. If the moisture is outside the plastic, you have moisture coming from inside the basement.

• Probably the easiest way to get rid of moisture in a basement is a dehumidifier.

4. To add an extension to a gutter, first stretch the extension to a length of 4'-5' (enough to draw the water away from the house). The corrugated-plastic pipe, though sturdy and rigid, does pull apart with a little effort (figure D).

5. Shape the extension pipe into a 90-degree angle; then slide it over the bottom end of the downspout (figure E). Secure the extension in place by inserting sheet-metal screws into the downspout (figure F).

Figure D

Figure E

Figure F

6. Remember always to aim the extension away from the foundation.

7. To repair a hairline crack (figure G), use a hammer and chisel to open up the area (figure H). Start at the top and work to the bottom, chipping a 1/2"-3/4" groove (you don't want to go any deeper than 3/4" or you run the risk of completely cracking the cinderblock).

Figure G

Figure H

8. Use a chisel to remove any loose concrete or debris that may clog up the crack. A stiff-bristled brush will help dislodge any smaller pieces still in the groove.

9. Wet down the surface with a spray bottle (figure I). Wearing safety gloves and working quickly, dump a small portion of hydraulic cement into a bucket, add water and begin mixing with your hand (figure J). You want a texture similar to cake batter, so add water and hydraulic cement as needed. Once you have the right mix, grab a handful and work it around in your hand, shaping it into a ball.

10. Begin to push the hydraulic cement into the open crack (figure K).

Figure I

Figure J

Figure K

11. Quickly use a trowel to slice away the excess cement before it cures. Any remaining flakes of cement can be removed with the brush.

• Costs for repairing a wet, leaky basement begin around $15 or $20. This will cover the cost of gutter extensions, splash guards and leaf covers. All are fairly easy to install and should take no more than a few hours to do so.

• Medium repair work, such as fixing a hairline crack (figure L), will cost around $50 and take about half a day to complete.

• Serious structural damage to the foundation (figure M), which can run more than a thousand dollars, should always be done by a professional. If structural damage is found, get several estimates before beginning any work.

  Figure L

  Figure M

  
  

• You can also take preventive measures such as applying cement paint; you'll need a stiff brush to apply the paint to cinderblocks. Dip the brush in the paint and apply generously to the cinderblocks.

• A stronger preventive measure, cement coating, will actually create a chemical reaction that will bond with the wall. Mix up the cement coating with water until smooth and apply with a very strong brush directly onto cinderblocks.

• You can install a condensate pump to the dehumidifier's hose connection so that instead of going into the bucket, the water will drain into the condensate pump; then hook up a hose to the condensate pump's drain line to pump the unwanted water up out of the basement.