DIY Network

Outdoor Shower How to install an outdoor shower From "Ed the Plumber" episode DETP-403

Ed Del Grande demonstrates the step-by-step installation of an outdoor shower.

advertisement

For parts that are visible, you'll want to use copper piping (above, center). For pipe that you don't see or that is buried, you'll want to use flexible pipe, such as 1/2" sprinkler hose (above, at bottom): it's flexible and designed to be buried, so you don't have to worry about it reacting with soil.

Tools:

pipe cutter
Teflon™ tape
hammer drill with a 3/16" masonry bit

Materials:

hose Y
set of quick diconnects
hose to insert adaptors
worm clamps
1/2" sprinkler pipe
copper pipe
assortment of compression fittings
anchors
screws
pipe clamps
brass tee

Installing an outdoor shower:

	Figure A
	Figure B

1. Pipe is the first thing to consider when you're planning an outdoor shower. If the area temperature goes below freezing, assume that the pipe will freeze, and design the shower so the lines can be blown out or drained. Usually you'll end up using a combination of piping for an outdoor shower (as shown in the top image, at right).

2. Next, decide the type of shower valve to use. Most of the time, an outdoor shower is going to have cold water running to it, so although you can use a traditional indoor shower mixing valve, this is necessary only if you wish to have both hot and cold water for your outdoor shower.

3. Starting at the water supply side of the pipe, dig down at least 6" (figure A). Make sure the depth stays consistent; any big dips in the line may create a freezing potential in cold weather. When the trench is complete, remove any rocks or other sharp objects that could puncture the line. Roll the pipe into the trench, being careful not to kink any part of it (figure B).

4. Because it's fairly inexpensive, leave plenty of extra pipe on the front and back side of the trench. When you backfill pipe, it will pull in, but with extra in place, you won't come up short. If any is left over, cut it down to size when you're making the final connections (figure C).

Ed's tip: Place yellow caution tape on top of the pipe before backfilling the trench with soil (figure D). In the future, if you're digging in the same area and expose the tape, you'll know where the water line runs and avoid a potential mishap.

Figure C

Figure D

5. Stabilize the ends of the pipe so there are no sharp bends or kinks where it comes out of the ground (figure E). Lay caution tape on top of the pip; use clumps of dirt to hold the pipe and tape in place as you backfill the trench.

6. With the pipe buried, you can add the hose connector fittings. The same process you used to attach the fitting to one side of the pipe is also used to connect it to the sillcock side of the pipe.

7. In order to connect the fitting to a piece of copper, you must use a compression fitting or a transition fitting.

8. Slide the nut from the compression fitting over the copper pipe. Next, slide the ferrell into place. Connect the fitting body to the pipe and hand-tighten the nut. Use pliers to tighten down the connections securely.

9. To run the copper line, measure the pipe and cut to length with a pipe cutter (figure F).

Figure E

Figure F

Figure G

10. Continue to assemble the run, using copper pipe and compression fittings, sized to fit the installation.

11. Next, mount the unit by drilling into the wall with a 3/16" masonry bit (figure G); make sure the holes properly align with the pipe clip. When the holes for the first pipe clamp are in place, tap in a plastic anchor (figure H); screw the clamp into the anchors to secure it to the wall (figure I).

Figure H

Figure I

Page  1 | 2