HOME IMPROVEMENT Index
Appliances
Basement
Bathrooms
Bedrooms
Cleaning
Contractors
Doors
Driveways & Paths
Duct Tape
Electrical Systems
Family Room
Fences & Gates
Fireplace
Floor Coverings
Furniture
Handles, Knobs & Hinges
Help on the Homefront
Home Energy Efficiency
Home Office
Homeowner in Process
House Exterior
Indoor Pests
Kitchens
Lighting
Outdoor Equipment
Outdoor Structures
Painting
Plumbing
Basement Drainage
Bathtubs & Showers
Faucets
Garbage Disposal
Leaks
Pipes & Fittings
Sinks
Toilets
Valves
Water Heaters
Other

Safety
Sports-Related Additions
Staining
Stairs
Storage
Tools
Utility Room
Walls & Ceilings
Windows

BEST OF
HOME IMPROVEMENT
Flooring
Decks
Mold Quiz
Home Safety
Tiling Techniques
Lighting Solutions
Weekend Projects
DIY to the Rescue
Home Renovations
Bathroom Makeover
Kitchen Renovations
Ultimate Media Room
Be Your Own Contractor

SPONSOR LINKS

  • Pipes 101
  • Learn about different types of pipe and their uses.
    From "Ed the Plumber"
    episode DETP-313


    (Continued from page 2)

    PHOTO

    Figure E

    • Spool out about one foot of solder, and then move the flame back and forth on the joint (figure E). To help ensure uniform heating, keep the flame moving around the fitting.

    • The color of the pipe will tell you when it's time to apply the solder. The copper will take on a shiny appearance, and the flux will melt. Touch the lip of the solder to the pipe; f it's hot enough, the solder will melt and get pulled into the joint. Make sure to solder around the entire joint.

    • Always try to work from the lowest part of the joint to the highest. The high side will stay hot longer, so you will have enough time to apply the solder. If the joint cools off too much, pass the flame of the torch back and forth, being careful not to over heat the area. Wipe the joint before the solder cools.

    • Shut off the flame on the torch, and then give the pipe plenty of time to cool. Always test the joint by charging the line with water or air before you close up the area.

      advertisement



      PHOTO

      Figure F
      PHOTO

      Figure G
      PHOTO

      Figure H

      • The same rules of measuring that you use for copper pipe will apply with CPVC. Always leave enough pipe for the fitting to fit snug into the fitting's shoulder (figure F).

      • PVC has it's own tools for cutting. Note: The cut should be square, or you could create a weak spot in the joint.

      • A ratchet cutter is one of the best options for cutting PVC. Open up the tool, put it into position, and then squeeze the handle until the blade comes into contact with the pipe (figure G). Make sure the blade is straight, and then squeeze the handle until the blade goes all the way through.

      • After a cut has been made, remove the burrs from the inside and outside of the pipe. If this isn't done, it could compromise the integrity of the joint. A file or small knife should do the job.

      • With CPVC, make sure that everything is as clean as possible. Wipe the pipe and the inside of the fitting clean.

      • Do a final cleaning by applying a coat of PVC cleaner primer (figure H).

        Safety Note: Wear rubber gloves and safety glasses when using PVC cleaner.

      • The cleaner primer will remove any excess dirt and any manufacturer printing on the pipe. Wipe the brush around the pipe and inside the fitting a few times until everything is clean.

      PHOTO

      Figure I

      • Once the primer has dried, apply a thick coat of cement around the pipe, and then inside the fitting. Immediately put the fitting onto the pipe and make a 1/4 to 1/2 turn. This motion ensures that the cement will be evenly distributed inside the joint. Hold the fitting in place (figure I) for a few seconds to keep the two pieces from pushing apart. There should be an even bead of cement around the joint. Let it dry one to two hours.

        Note: Use cement specifically for CPVC because it's designed to work with pressurized lines.

        PEX

      • PEX stands for Cross-linked Polyethylene. It's a really strong, flexible pipe.

      • PEX comes in lengths like copper pipe and PVC, as well as long rolls.

      • With PEX, you can pull an entire pipe run, and only have to make two joints. The pipe moves like wire or a hose and can be snaked into position.

      • The types of fittings are the same as other pipes, but they go inside the pipe instead of the outside. Because the pipe is flexible, you'll use fewer fittings.

      • When connecting to a soldered connection, PEX has special fittings to do the conversion.

      • Be careful when running PEX not to kink the pipe so the water flow is not disrupted.

      • All pipe joints start the same with cutting and measuring. Mark the place on the pipe to be cut, and then make the cut-keeping it square (figure J).

      • Make sure there aren't any small pieces in the pipe, and then slide on a crimp ring. Use slip joint pliers to slide the ring into place, between 1/8 inch and 1/4 inch from the end of the pipe. Put the crimping tool over the ring, and then squeeze (figure K). The joint should be in place.

      • Test the line with water or air before closing up the area.
      Photo

      Figure J

      Photo

      Figure K




        1 | 2 | 3



      RESOURCES :

      Zurn PEX
      Website: www.zurn.com

      Copper Development Association Inc.
      Website: www.copper.org

      FlowGuard Gold Pipe and Fittings
      Website: www.flowguardgold.com

      Jet Swet
      Brenelle Company LLC
      Website: www.brenelle.com

    • ALSO IN THIS EPISODE: