Aug. 28, 2006Q: Ed, we read your column about tile shower stalls and how a pre-built fiberglass base will make the job easier by eliminating the need to install a tile shower pan. This sounds like the best move for us, since we would be leery to try to build a tile shower base. But my question involves this: Our drain is not centeredit's off to one side. Can we somehow alter the new fiberglass shower base to fit an off-center drain? We really want to build the shower ourselves if possible. Robin, Washington, D.C.
A: It's nice to hear that many people put my advice to work in their homes! And you're right; custom tile showers are nice to look at but tough to install. Making the base is the hardest part, and framing in a copper or rubber shower pan, setting up the drain flange, filling the pan with concrete and cutting and installing the tile floor, is a lot of work!
Fiberglass shower bases are ready to go out of the box and they are very attractive and have special flanges to accept tile walls. However, they do have a pre-drilled drain hole installed in the center of the base, so changing the location of the drain hole is not possible. In a case like yours, you will have to re-pipe the existing drain and trap to fit the new fiberglass shower base.
If you're installing the shower on a first floor and have access to the drain line in the basement, it's really not a big deal to move (or have a plumber move) the shower drain and install a new trap centered under the shower base. If the work is on a second floor or higher floor it becomes a bigger project to open up the floor, re-pipe the drain and set the trap to fit the base. Then you need to place the shower base over the drain and hope everything fits!
Remember that replacing a shower usually requires a permit, and the job needs to be inspected. I would recommend calling a licensed plumber if you're not sure of your drain-piping skills to install the base. You can still tile all the walls and build the rest of the shower stall yourself, and if you don't look down while showering, you'll never notice you had a little help!
Q: Hello, Ed. Please help! We seem to have a flapper problem with two toilets. We've replaced the flappers several times. But even with the new flappers the toilets continue to run. It seems like they don't close every time. What can we do? Does it help to weigh down a flapper with a bolt or something? Betty, California
A: Betty, I'll answer the last part of the question first: Flappers are not designed for, nor do I recommend, adding extra weight to help a flapper close. Now that we have that out of the way, let's talk about what we can do to fix your flapper problem. Replacing a flapper is one of the easiest plumbing jobs to do, but finding the correct flapper to use out of the dozens and dozens of flappers out there can be a challenge.
The best way to find the correct flapper is to get the make and model of your toilet and contact the factory for an authorized distributor. Or, if you are changing your flapper for the first time, take the old one with you to the plumbing-supply house to find a perfect match. Since you are having the same problem with both toilets this tells me that chances are you are using the wrong style flapper for your tank.
But before going out and getting new flappers, check to make sure the handles on the toilets are not sticking and keeping the flappers from closing. Often it's best to change the flushing handle and flapper together for a smooth operation. Finally, check the seat or seal where the flapper closes at the base of the tank. You can have the best flapper in the world but if the seat under the flapper is damaged you'll still have a running toilet. I hope these tips help you deal with your flapper frustration!
(Ed Del Grande is a certified master plumber and hosts DIY's Ed the Plumber. Send plumbing questions to him at edtheplumber@diynetwork.com. For building-code concerns, always contact your local government office or a local licensed plumber. Distributed by Scripps Howard News Service.)