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Interlocking Stone Wall and Steps Dean and Derek replace rotted railroad-ties with a stone retaining wall and steps. Check out more Rock Solid do-it-yourself hardscaping projects. From "Rock Solid" episode DROC-409

This interlocking stone wall with integrated steps provides a solution for a sloped yard, and replaces an old, worn retaining structure.

In this Rock Solid project, stone masons Dean Marsico and Derek Stearns tackle a common backyard problem: dramatically uneven yard elevations.

If you have a steep hill in your backyard, why not use it to your advantage? For this project, we build a stone wall with integrated steps to divide and visually enhance a sloping landscape.

Using an interlocking wall system that incorporates four different lengths and two different thicknesses of stone, Dean and Derek demonstrate that a strong and attractive stone wall doesn't have to be difficult to build. And, once finished, the stone steps cut into the wall's middle turn the sloped yard into a more usable space.

Below is a summary of the steps as seen in this project, as well as some installation tips and a list of materials and tools used.

Materials:

concrete block wall system
concrete block steps and risers system
crusher run
3/4-inch gravel
geogrid
landscape fabric
perforated pipe
concrete block adhesive
loam
stakes
marking paint

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	Before
	After

Tools:

skid steer or small skid steer (for large projects)
plate compactor
reciprocating saw
sledgehammer
stone hammer
hand tamper
rubber mallet
iron chisel
spade
shovel
iron rake
caulking gun
square
nylon string
tape measure
level
bristle brush
utility knife (for cutting landscape fabric)
marker

	Figure A
	Figure B

Demolition of the Old Wall

This project solves a common backyard elevation problem by constructing an interlocking concrete block retaining wall. For this particular project, it's necessary to demolish an old retaining wall made of rotting railroad ties. To help with the work, Dean and Derek bring in a skid steer (figure A), which is used throughout the project. If you're working in tight quarters, you may want top rent a skid steer that's about three feet wide and can fit through doorways.

The railroad ties are secured with wood spikes, which need to be cut. Use a reciprocating saw with a blade attachment to saw through those spikes (figure B).

Use a sledgehammer to flatten the spikes, and then clear out the railroad ties.

Measure the Footing

Before beginning construction, measure out your wall's footing. Set up stakes and run a string line between them. If your wall is going to line up against a house or any other structure, use a square to make sure the string (and thus, your wall) is square to the house.

Mark the line on the ground with marking paint. This will tell you where to dig the footing. You'll also want to establish the wall's height before beginning construction. Your retaining wall should be high enough that the ground behind it is level. However, the high ground should also be pitched slightly so that rainwater will run downward.

The gravel base consists of about six inches of crusher run, then about six inches of 3/4" gravel.

Dig the Footing

For this project, Dean and Derek build a wall that's about three feet high. For a wall of that height, you'll need to dig a deep base. Footing depths vary with the height of the wall and type of system used, so check your product's specifications. Eventually you'll want your first row of blocks to lay four inches below grade, with 8 to 12 inches of gravel beneath that. So you'll be digging down 12 to16 inches total. Use a front-loader or skid steer to dig the trench for the footing.

Your first layer of gravel will be about six inches of crusher run. Bring in the crusher run and spread it into the footing. Then use a plate compactor to compact the crusher run in three-inch increments. On top of that, spread in six inches of 3/4-inch crushed stone, which will stabilize the blocks and provide drainage. Make sure the base is level, then compact the 3/4-inch crushed stone with the compactor (again in three-inch increments.)

	Figure C
	Figure D
	Figure E

Set the Stone

For the look of this project, use concrete blocks that have been tumbled for a natural stone appearance. The blocks have a tongue-and-groove system for easy stacking. The system also includes blocks of different seizes to create visual interest.

For the first row of cement blocks, make sure to use the larger blocks for added support, and set them flush with each other. There will be a tongue on the bottom of the blocks in the first row, so you may need to adjust the gravel underneath in order to set them evenly.

Tip: When you set a concrete block, give it a few whacks with a rubber mallet to secure it into place (figure C).

As you set the first row, be sure to keep checking that you are level front to back and side to side (figure D). If you take your time leveling the first row, then the other rows will go easier.

The next row will simply lock into place, thanks to the blocks' tongue-and-groove system (figure E).

Rock Solid Pro Tip: As you set the rows of stone, avoid laying the stones so as to create continuous or connecting joints. Alternating or "breaking up" the joints will give you a stronger wall structure.

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