DIY Network

Move It Outside Pt. 3: Outdoor Shower and Propane Lanterns DIY pro Jay Baker helps with yet another project to keep the guests at a family reunion outdoors: a poolside outdoor shower with propane water heater. From "Move It Outside" episode DMIO-103

(Continued from page 2)

	The completed shower installation

Outdoor Shower

Materials:

showerhead
faucet handles
adjustable shower drain
copper tubing
shut-off valves
90 degree bends
control valves
PVC pipe
cement board
field stone
mortar mix
quick setting concrete mix
manufactured stone
rebar
2x4 beams
2x6 boards
nails

Tools and equipment:

concrete mixer (optional)
concrete saw
circular saw
radial arm saw
power drill
nail gun
sledgehammer
pipe cutter
wheelbarrow
trowel
screed
shovel
hoe
level
hammer
screws
bucket
carpenter's pencil
tape measure
masking tape

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	Figure A
	Figure B
	Figure C
	Figure D
	Figure E
	Figure F
	Figure G
	Figure H

Steps:

• Before the outdoor shower can be constructed, clear the ground of debris and level the area.

• Once the ground is cleared, create a frame for the shower foundation out of 2x4 beams.

• Install rebar to provide extra support for the floor of the shower.

• Install adjustable shower drain.

• Cover the foundation with concrete and level with a screed. Allow to dry (figure A).

• Next, build a frame for the shower with pressure-treated 2x4's.

• To get the appropriate frame dimensions, determine the height of the shower and measure the width of the shower base, then subtract two inches off of each side to allow for the rock, mortar and concrete board.

  Example: The foundation of Kurt and Jennifer's shower was 49 inches, so their frame was only 45 inches wide.

• Use a radial arm saw to cut the 2x4s and a nail gun to tack the frame together (figure B).

• Position and bolt the shower frame securely to the wall of the pool house and to the cement foundation of the shower (figure C).

• Insert horizontal blocks between the vertical beams of the frame.

• The horizontal blocks will eventually serve as an attachment point for the cement board that will support the stone.

• For the plumbing, drill holes through the exterior shower wall into the pool house where plumbing already exists.

• Measure and cut copper pipe to tap into the lines that will carry both hot and cold water to the outdoor shower.

• Use a soldering iron to install shut-off valves and weld 90 degree bends together to attach one tube to another. This allows water to flow easily through the pipes.

• Push copper tubing through the hole in the shower wall, attach control valves to the outside shower wall and connect pipes that will supply the water to the shower head and foot faucet.

• Measure the shower frame and cut cement board to the appropriate dimensions.

  Tip: It's easiest to cut the cement board into four pieces, put it up in sections, and notch around the shower fixtures.

• Use concrete screws to attach the cement boards to the shower frame (figure D).

• Use a trowel to cover the cement board with a layer of mortar (figure E).

• Once covered entirely (figure F) his will be a perfect surface for the manufactured stone to adhere to.

• Once the mortar has dried, you may begin with the manufactured stone.

• First, cover the faucet handles with masking tape to prevent nicks and scratches.

• Then, coat the back of each stone piece with mortar and stick it to the cement board, starting with the corner pieces and working your way up and toward the center (figures G and H).

  Note: We opted to use manufactured stone on the wall of the shower because it is lighter and less expensive than field stone.

• Once the manufactured stone is finished, lay field stone on the floor of the shower .

• Lay each stone in a bed of mortar. Wiggle the stone to set it into place then level it.

• When the last piece of stone is put into place, allow the mortar to fully dry before using the shower.

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