Everyone loves a backyard barbecue! Whether you have a large yard or a small outdoor living space, you can build a brick barbecue grill that is virtually maintenance-free. Fix It Up! hosts Pat Simpson and Jodi Marks show how to build a custom grill that will provide years of tasty treats and al fresco dining delights. Building a Barbecue
Tools:
straight edge
carpenter's pencil
carpenter's square
metal barbecue grills
bricks
mortar
cold chisel or wet saw
hoe and wheelbarrow
trowel
four- foot level
mason's string
Steps:
1. First, decide where you want the barbecue. An area of the yard that receives full sun may not be the best bet. Try for an area at least partially, if not fully, shaded. If you don't already have an area of concrete slab available, check out Fix It Up episode #802 for more information on how to pour your own.
2. Mark the center of the concrete slab, using a 2x4 as a straight edge. Mark the line with a carpenter's pencil through the center of the slab parallel to the patio (or in the direction you want the grill area to face). Next, with a carpenter's square, mark another line through the center of the slab perpendicular to the first line (figure A). 3. Determine how many bricks you will need by measuring the square footage of the barbecue and reporting this to your home supply center. Lay out the bricks on the site and hose them down with water (figure B). This will prevent them from soaking up excess moisture from your mortar. Do this 30 minutes before laying the bricks.
4. You'll want to dry fit the area before you actually set your bricks in mortar. Begin by laying a single course of bricks along the outside edge of the barbecue, using the metal grills as a guide. Leave a half-inch gap between each brick to account for the mortar. Mark the guide about three-quarters of an inch wider than the grill to account for the extended brick edges where the grills will rest (figure C).
5. Use a four-foot level to draw a pencil line and then dry fit the bricks around three sides of the back course, keeping them flush with the ends of the slab (figure D). When you are satisfied with the shape, remove the bricks from the slab. You may need to make cuts in the bricks for a proper fit. Use a cold chisel or wet saw to accomplish this.
6. You are now ready to mix mortar. In this case, you will be mixing mortar, sand and water. Always practice safety when mixing mortar. To mix mortar, dump the dry ingredients in a wheelbarrow and mix thoroughly. Make a hole in the ingredients and pour in water a little at a time, mixing with a hoe.
7. Test the consistency by making ridges in the mortar with a hoe (figure E ). Good mortar should have the consistency of mud--thick, but easy to spread. If the ridges slump, add more dry ingredients. If the ridges crumble, add more water. 8. Now you are ready to "throw a line" of mortar. This entails piling mortar on your trowel, then slowly turning the trowel on edge on the slab and pulling it toward you. Another way to apply mortar is to "butter the brick." In this case, you will scrape the edge of the trowel along the side and edge with a trowel of mortar.
9. When you throw your line, use the pointed tip of the trowel to create a "V" along the top of the mortar bed. This is called a furrow. You set the brick in the "V," which aligns the mortar and keeps things balanced.
10. Using a pointed trowel, apply a line of mortar on the slab, starting at the corner and lining it up carefully along the pencil line. Lay a parallel line of mortar next to the first and use the trowel to make a furrow in the mortar (figure F). Next, push the first brick into the mortar, making sure it is well-seated. 11. Then, butter and place the second brick into the mortar and push it against the first (figure G). Repeat the same process with the next few bricks, each time scraping off the excess mortar that has squeezed out of the joints. Use a four- foot level throughout the process to make sure all bricks are level in all directions (figure H).
12. Continue laying bricks for the outer edge, just as you did the inside edge. Remove excess mortar with the trowel and frequently check the level (figure I). Also, keep a bucket of water handy and add a few drops to the mortar if it begins to lose consistency. Fresh mortar is essential. Allow the first single layer of bricks to dry for about 45 minutes before you begin stacking.
13. After three layers of bricks, the barbecue should be taking shape (figure J). Since this is outside, water can accumulate at the bottom. Leave a small hole in the mortar at the base to allow for drainage (figure K).
14. Continue laying the bricks. At this stage, build in several ledges to allow grills to be set at differing heights above the coals. At every other course, set bricks along the long edge, jutting out over the inside edge about a half-inch for the grills. Keep checking the level (figure L). The height and amount of ledges is up to you (figure M).
15. A cold chisel will come in handy at this point for making half-bricks. Simply tap deliberately at the center of the brick--a few taps on either side of the same surface--listening for the pitch to drop as you tap (figure N). The lower the pitch, the closer the brick is to breaking.
16. Continue adding courses, finishing the joints as you go. Use a joint tooler, first vertically, then horizontally, as you work to create smooth, concave joints. Cap the wall with a course of bricks, set on edge, across the courses. Lay the corner bricks first, using a level to keep them even. Next, use mason's string tied to this row to keep them straight (figure O). Fill in the row with bricks, then finish the top rows.
17. Allow the mortar to cure for three days, then saturate them with water (figure P). Using long-handle brushes and brick-cleaning solution, give the bricks a good scrub (figure Q). Finally, rinse off the bricks with clean, clear water to reveal your new barbecue (figure R)!
18. The cost for this project is roughly 250 dollars and takes three days to complete.