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• Once you've marked your stone, carefully cut along your marked line using the saw with the carbide blade (figures C and D).

• Once you've cut your scribed line all the way around the stone, gently tap inside the groove with the tip of a chisel to cleanly split the stone (figure E).

• Once all of your stones have been cut, you can begin setting it using thin-set mortar. Before placing the stone, 1/2-inch wooden blocks are laid along the perimeter of the cabinet (figure F). The shim blocks help in support the stone in place as the mortar sets, and provide the 1/2-inch gap that will form the grout line.

• Start the stone-laying process by mixing some thin-set mortar. Since this mortar sets up quickly, mix up only enough to set one or two stones at a time. Spread a thin layer of mortar over the entire back surface of the stone (figure G) and the portion of the counter wall where the stone will be positioned (figure H).

• Once the mortar is applied, carefully lift the stone into position (figure I). Once it's in position, move the stone slightly back and forth to solidify the mortar seal, and check the final position.

• Applying stone veneer (figure J) is not difficult. Just remember to work on just one or two stones at a time. In that way, you can plan and custom cut the stones you need as you work, and it will prevent excess mortar from setting up to early.

• Because spacers can't be used to position the pieces of stone that run along the top of the cabinet unit, you'll need to create a lentel to hold the upper stone in place. We created ours out of a sheet of aluminum. Using deck screws, fasten the piece of aluminum lentil around the cabinet openings (figure K). This will provide a ledge for the stone to rest on.

In the segment that follows, work continues on laying the stone veneer and building the kitchen bar.

Next: Stone Veneer and Bar Framework