Host Fuad Reveiz attaches the awning brace to the house and the awning frame to the cast iron, and then he installs the awning.On a scale of 1 to 5, with 5 being the most difficult, this project rates a 2.
Materials:
Custom awning and frame
Cast-iron columns, railings and headers
Exterior ceiling fan
Non-metallic building electrical wire
Conduit
Drill
Masonry bits
Level
Framing square
Hammer and nails
Chalk line
Tape measure
Pencil
Screwdrivers
Wrenches
Wire strippers
Attaching the Awning Brace- Begin by checking the roof rake by laying a level up the rake. Make a mark and drop a tape measure to get a measurement.
- Move to the other side and mark off the same height.
- Mark a chalk line on the wall (figure A), and then check with a level.
- Probe the wall for the studs and mark their locations.
- Measure and cut a 2"x10" piece of lumber to use as the header you'll use to attach the awning to. Raise the board into position on the chalk line and nail it in place temporarily.
- Pre-drill the board and then install lag bolts with washers to firmly secure the header to the house. Hammer the lag bolts into the studs to get them started, but once they do pull the board is pulled tight to the house.
- Set the flashing in place, and pre-drill into the sheeting behind the stucco. Caulk between the flashing and the house.
- Install 3" galvanized and painted screws (figure B) to secure it in place.
Attaching the Awning Frame
With the header firmly secured to the house, the next step is to attach the frame to it that will support the awning material itself.
Note: To make sure it's sturdy and won't come apart, the awning company we gave our dimensions to custom built it as one continuous piece.
- Pre-drill the awning frame itself where it will connect to the house, both at the header and along the side against the soffit.
- Feed the awning material into the channel at the top of the frame and roll it out (figure C).
- Secure the canvas in place at one end by hammering down the corner of the channel, and then from the opposite end, pull the awning tight and hammer that side as well. This will keep it from pulling loose when it's stretched.
- Secure the corner points by cutting the canvas, folding it under and then pulling it tight using a canvas stretcher (figure D).
- Install self-tapping screws into the frame.
- With the first corner secure, move on to the next. It's the same process as before, but this side will go against the fascia of the house. So attach it to a cross piece of the frame.
- With all the corners secured, begin working down the outside edge.
- As the helper (or installer) stretches the canvas, secure it with screws.
Note: The key here is to keep the seam of the canvas lined up with the frame.
- With the canvas stretched and secured on all sides, it's time to set it in place. This is a big awning and it takes at least five helpers to handle it. But with a little nudging and adjusting (figure E), place it on top of the cast-iron headers.
- Begin attaching the frame to the main header on the house with 4" wood screws everywhere the frame was pre-drilled.
- Now on to the fascia, again using the wood screws where you pre-drilled.
- At the outside edge at the top of the cast iron, attach the frame by connecting at the point where the top rails connect.
- Shoot 2" self-tapping screws into the rails to pull them together (figure F).
Tip: The trick here is to make sure and keep the rail on the awning and the top rail of the cast iron lined up.
- Feed the valance material into the channel along the front and then down the side.
- Now you just need to hammer the channel strips down to keep the valance from coming loose. This is a great finishing touch!
In the final segment, Reveiz will run electricity and install the ceiling fan.