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Kitchen Overhaul: Breakfast Bar, Tile Floor, Cabinets and Backsplash A dated kitchen gets the Sweat Equity treatment with tile flooring, new cabinets and backsplash. Check out more value-enhancing projects from Sweat Equity From "Sweat Equity" episode DSEQ-213

(Continued from page 3)

The newly installed tile backsplash

Project 4: Install a Glass Tile Backsplash

Joan and Eddy select a contemporary modern glass tile backsplash for their kitchen. A glass tile backsplash has great payoff potential, but see-through glass tile has added installation challenges.

Materials:

2-foot level
tape measure
rubber grout float or squeegee
tile nippers (optional)
tile saw
small notched trowel
epoxy adhesive
tile
caulking gun with tub-and-tile caulk
bucket and sponge
spacers
grout (check w manufacturer for appropriate product)
clean cloth
canvas drop cloths

Safety Alerts:

• Always wear safety glasses when working with power tools.

• Wear latex work gloves when working with caustic adhesives and grout.

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Tips for Installing a Glass Tile Backsplash

• Manufacturers can help you decide on the amount of tile you need for a given job based on square footage of the workspace.

• When using clear glass tiles, remember that they will take on the look of the wall behind them. Work carefully when applying adhesive and consider using a colored adhesive suitable for glass tile.

• Check with the tile dealer to make certain you're using a trowel with the correct-width notches for your adhesive.

  When installing glass tiles, make sure to use a latex modified adhesive in order to properly bond to the substrate. Ceramic tile adhesives won't get the job done. Use 1 gallon for every 50 to 60 square feet.

• Latex modified (or epoxy-based) adhesive can be challenging to work with and are extremely difficult to remove once set. Always remove excess adhesive immediately.

• A motorized wet saw, which rents for about $45 to $70 a day (plus blade rental), is invaluable for notches and other complex cuts.

	Figure P
	Figure Q
	Figure R
	Figure S

Steps:

1. Lay out (dry-fit) the tile pattern on the floor first to experiment with the orientation of the tile with accent pieces and make sure it will fit evenly on the wall over the countertop (figure P).

2. Measure the areas to be tiled and use a level to mark reference lines and center points.

3. Remove any electrical-outlet covers from the wall, and turn off the power to the outlets. (If you place tile around an electrical box, make sure the cover plate will hide the exposed tile edges. Leave room to remove the outlets or switches in case it becomes necessary.)

4. It's recommended to use a notched trowel to apply adhesive to the wall (figure Q). Only spread the adhesive over a manageable area to prevent the mastic from drying too quickly. When in pinch, a paint scraper can be used as an adhesive spreader.

5. Place your first tile on the center point (figure R), and work your way outward. Press and slide each tile into the adhesive with enough force to remove any air pockets. Remember, glass tiles will magnify any underlying blemishes.

6. Don't forget to use spacers as you set subsequent tiles. The traditional option of match sticks as spacers can be effective (figure S), but for precise grout lines and tile orientation, use inexpensive plastic tile spacers found in most hardware stores.

7. Allow the adhesive to cure overnight.

8. Apply grout according to your tile retailer's recommendations.

9. After the grout dries, wipe the haze from the tiles and buff them with a soft cloth. Don't forget to caulk the outer edges of the tile for a sealed, finished look.

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