In this second segment of the second episode of "Contemporary Kitchen Expansion," host Paul Ryan and Keith, the homeowner, attach the switch boxes and drill holes in the joists for the new line. Paul goes over the wiring codes as they wire the pendant lighting, and then they run the wires to connect the can lights. [Materials List and step-by-step instructions are below.]
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 The homeowners are unhappy with the cramped kitchen area...
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 and the cabinets are too antiquated.
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 The solution: Knock out the adjoining wall and open the kitchen up...
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 into a spacious, eye-popping, contemporary treasure.
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Materials and Tools for Installing Mounting Fixtures for Lights --Laser level Tape measure Speed square Hammer 1" screws Pencil Materials and Tools for Wiring for Lights -- Switch box Hole Hawg Wiring Hammer Electrical tape Wire cutter Materials and Tools for Mold Problems -- Tyvek suit Respirator Gloves Eye protection Poly sheeting Hammer tacker Fan Hammer Garbage bags Tape Vacuum Putty knife Pressure sprayer Bleach Scrub brush Mop
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 This is the illustration plan for wiring the lighting. There are three main circuits that each will distribute power to a series of lights, switches and outlets.
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 Figure A
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 Figure B
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 Figure C
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- Determine the wiring you will use.
Note: We are using 12-2 non-metallic building electrical wire. The 12 refers to the gauge and the 2 refers to the two insulated conductors and a ground wire. Gauge refers to the thickness of the wire. The thicker the wire, the heavier the load it can carry. - Attach the switchbox to the stud. The typical height for a switch is 42" to the bottom of the box from the floor.
- Drill the holes to run the new line. To make it easier to drill in tight spaces between the ceiling joists, use a Hole Hawg (figure A) -- a heavy-duty right angle drill with a forstner bit that's big enough for the wire to pass through without binding.
Note: You can usually rent a Hole Hawg for approximately $20 a day. - Pull the wire through the drilled holes, leaving the wire on the floor and unspool it, working from one end of the circuit to the other. Leave plenty of extra wire and coil it inside the box.
- Use the "Rule of 8's" -- leave at least 8" of wire extending out past the box, staple it within 8" from the box and within 8" from where it goes into the wall.
- When wiring a series of recess can lights, start by running a length of wire from one can to the next, leaving plenty of excess.
- To run wires through the box, twist out a knockout tab with a screwdriver (figure B). Most plastic electrical boxes have bend-out or knockout tabs for the wire to go through.
- Run both wires through the box clamp and strip the ends.
- Connect the wires with wire nuts -- black to black (the hot wires), white to white (the common or neutral wires) and ground-to-ground wires (figure C).
- Add electrical tape around the wire nuts.
- Continue wiring the rest of the can light and bring the power down to the switch locations.
In the next segment Shane, the contractor, shows Paul and the homeowners a variety of equipment options to check for moisture problems.
RESOURCES :
White Ridged Pendant Lights
Model #: F5020-36
Color: White
Brand Name: Forecast
Manufacturer: Forecast Lighting
Website: www.forecastltg.com
Desiccant Spike Moisture Indicator
Brand Name: ARI
Manufacturer: Autumn River, Inc. Autumn River, Inc.
We apologize no contact information is available.
GUESTS :
Shane Kretsinger
Vice President, Operations
Autumn River
We apologize no contact information is available.
Brian Hart
Vice President
Forecast Lighting
1600 Fleetwood Dr.
Elgin, IL 60047
Toll-free: 800-989-3000
Website: www.forecastltg.com
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