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  • DIY's Habitat House: Tile Backsplash
  • From "Ask DIY Home Improvement"
    episode DADH-211


    PHOTO

    Part of the renovation included a white tile backsplash.
    PHOTO

    The project kitchen BEFORE the renovation.
    Q: (from Carlene in Great Falls, MT) I want to add a backsplash to my kitchen and I'd really love for it to be tile. I'm fairly handy and willing to try this project on my own. Can you tell me how to do it?

    A: (from DIY home-improvement specialist Brad Staggs) The backsplash is the final addition in the kitchen improvements that are part of DIY's Habitat-For-Humanity project house.

    The tiny 9' x 7' kitchen was in need of some updating, and was not laid out in the most efficient manner. For the complete kitchen overhaul, we added a new floor, new cabinets, countertops and altered the basic layout of the room. For the backsplash, we opted for a basic white tile. Below is a summary of the basic steps our volunteers went through to install backsplash.

    Materials:

    4x4 ceramic tiles
    Wet-saw
    Notched trowel
    Grout float
    Tile adhesive
    Tile grout
    Silicon caulk
    Hammer
    Sponge
    Carpenter's level
    Painter's tape
    Pencil
    Safety glasses

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    • We selected 4"x4" tiles, since they are easy to work with and easy to cut. These tiles are "self-spacing" -- meaning that they have built-in spacers (figure A) so that they create their own grout-lines when positioned next to each other. This simplifies installation greatly.

    • We tiled only a few of the wall surfaces in the kitchen, which allowed us to avoid corner-cuts and intricate cuts around cabinets.

    • The wall behind the sink was freshly painted, and had a clean and smooth surface that provided a good surface for tiling (figure B). If your surface is rough or uneven, you can use sandpaper to smooth it.
      Photo

      Figure A

      Photo

      Figure B


      PHOTO

      Figure C
      PHOTO

      Figure D

    • Make certain that the counter-top is level (figure C) so that it can be used as the reference line for the first row of tiles. (If the countertop isn't level, you'll need to establish a straight reference line and cut the first row of tiles to fit against the counter.)

    • Measure and mark a starting point centered behind the sink as this will be the visual focal-point of the backsplash.

    • Since our backsplash was below a window, we removed the wood trim at the base of the window (figure D). We also removed the electrical-outlet covers.

      PHOTO

      Figure E
      PHOTO

      Figure F

    • Use a notched trowel to spread the adhesive thinly and evenly (figure E). The key is to use only as much adhesive as you can cover with tile in about 15 minutes -- the length of time it takes for the adhesive to harden.

    • Place the first tile at the starting-point mark, and press it firmly into place.

      Important: Always start installing tile in the middle of the wall, and work your way out.

    • Continue installing tiles in the first row, making certain press each tile firmly into the adhesive.

    • Once you've completed the first row, continue installing the full tiles in the same manner (figure F).

      PHOTO

      Figure G
      PHOTO

      Figure H

    • In our case, the first cut tile came at the end of the first row. For a cut tile, turn the tile over and hold it across the empty space (figure G), then mark the tile on its back side indicating where you'll need to cut.

    • Cut the tile to fit using a wet-saw. (These can be rented from some home centers and from rental centers.) Hold the tile firmly, and "push it through" the blade (figure H).

      Tip: When making a cut that doesn't go the entire length of the tile, don't simply pick the tile up when you've made your cut. Rather, back the tile up until it clears the blade, then lift it.

      Safety Alert: Always wear safety glasses and follow proper safety precautions when using a wet-saw. Tiny bits of tile can fly off the blade, and could cause eye injury.

    • Install the cut tiles to fit the remaining space. Repeat the process for the other end-tiles as needed. Don't worry if the fit isn't exact, as the grout will conceal small imperfections.

    • On the wall behind the sink, we wanted the tiles to be even with the edge of the cabinet, so we marked a line to indicate the spacing (figure I).

    • We filled this space with pre-cut trim-pieces that have smooth edges (figure J).
      Photo

      Figure I

      Photo

      Figure J


      PHOTO

      Figure K

    • Another challenge came at the opening for the range on our final wall. Since it's not necessary to tile all the way to the floor on the portion of the wall that will be concealed by the range, we installed a wood extension to hold the bottom row of tiles (figure K) while the adhesive dries.

    • Once the last tile is in place, let the adhesive set for at least 24 hours before proceeding further.

    • Once the adhesive has dried, it's time to apply the grout. This is a messy job. Use a rubber grout-float to apply the grout to the wall (figure L). Hold the float at a 45-degree angle and spread grout over the tiles. Spread it in several directions, and make certain that you force it into the grout lines.

    • Once it has been applied, wipe the excess from the tile surface with a damp sponge (figure M). You may need to continue wiping several times to remove all the grout from the surfaces. Be sure that you use clean water for wiping, and avoid hollowing out the grout lines with the sponge.

    • Allow the grout to dry for 24 hours, then wipe off the grout-haze with a clean, dry cloth.
      Photo

      Figure L

      Photo

      Figure M


    • For our final step, we sealed the gap where the tile backsplash meets the integrated countertop backsplash using silicon caulk (figure N). This will prevent water from getting down behind the countertop.

      Tip: For a clean application of silicon caulk, first apply painter's tape on either side of the small gap, making sure that the tape is well burnished. After applying a bead of caulk, moisten the end of your finger with water, and use the tip of your finger to create a smooth caulk-line by running your finger along the bead and applying even pressure as you go (figure O). Once you've smoothed out the caulk, carefully remove the tape to reveal a straight, professional-looking caulk-line.
      Photo

      Figure N

      Photo

      Figure O


    Tip: Use grout-sealer on your new grout lines to keep them looking clean and new as long as possible.

    To learn about how you can volunteer to help Habitat for Humanity in your community, go to www.diynetwork.com/habitat. Follow the instructions to enter your zip-code and locate volunteer opportunities near you.


    RESOURCES :

    HGTV's Complete Fix-It
    Author: HGTV

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