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  • Ehlers' Kitchen Floor: From Frumpy to Fashionable
  • From "DIY to the Rescue"
    episode DTTR-208


    Chris Ehler removed the tired old linoleum that he and Becca hated. The linoleum wasn't an easy removal, however, and the result is residual pieces on a scarred surface. The crew plans on installing a new limestone composite tile that will be stronger and more durable than regular ceramic tile. If Chris had left the old linoleum intact, the new DuraCeramic tile could be installed directly over. Because the linoleum is uneven and in pieces, the crew will have to begin with a underlayment installation.

    Plywood Underlayment Installation

    Materials:

    1/4" plywood panels
    circular saw or saber/jig saw for cutting plywood
    tape measure
    pencil
    straightedge/carpenter square
    staples and staple air gun or ring-shank nails and hammer
    orbital sander for joints
    trowel
    patching compound/Portland cement
    6" broad knife
    long metal straight edge
    broom/shop vacuum
    fans

    For Safety's Sake: Never remove an old linoleum floor without having the floor tested for asbestos. The Ehlers' floor tested safe, which was a good thing. By tearing into the floor, Chris could have been exposed to the dangerous asbestos particles.

    1. Remove enough of the existing floor to create a smooth, level surface. Use scrapers to remove bits and pieces. Reduce only the high spots so that the floor is relatively level.

    2. Next, lay out the 1/4" plywood panels on the floor. Each row should be staggered from the next row. Rough cut panels to fit around cabinetry, then use a staple gun to attach to the existing floor.

    3. Once the plywood is stapled down, use a belt sander or an orbital sander to smooth the joints. Fill any gaps or openings with joint compound.

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    Limestone Composite Tile Installation

    With the new underlayment down, the crew is ready to install the limestone composite tile. The tile, a mixture of limestone and polymer, is a strong solution for the kitchen. The product is unique and requires a specific application method as outlined below.

    Materials:

    utility knife
    100-lb. roller
    caulk line for guidelines
    adhesive (with special trowel adaptor)
    tile spacers
    carpenters square or other metal straight edge
    hair dryer (or hot air gun)
    tape measure
    fans
    hard rubber float
    nylon scrubbing ad
    firm square edge sponge
    buckets with clean water
    rubber gloves
    safety glasses
    fans
    PHOTO
    PHOTO

    Figure B
    PHOTO

    Figure C
    PHOTO

    Figure D
    PHOTO

    Figure E

    1. Measure the room, then use a chalk line to divide the room into four quadrants. Make sure the dividing line is not directly of the meeting of two plywood panels.

    2. Place tiles to ensure they are evenly spaced from the wall to the center mark.

    3. Trowel out the special pressure sensitive adhesive that is designed for this tile. The adhesive comes with an attachment that converts a traditional trowel into one that lays out the adhesive so it dries at the proper rate. Apply adhesive in only 3 of the 4 quadrants, starting from the far corner. Keep your work tools in the 4th quadrant. When the adhesive is dry (about 40 minutes later), it will turn from blue to clear and will not stick to fingers when lightly touched.

    4. Before installing the tiles, note the directional arrows on the back surface of each tile (figure A). These arrows must be rotated to create a more random pattern with the tile. Position each tile very accurately. Note: Once each tile has been positioned onto the adhesive, it isn't repositionable as is most standard tile.

    5. Add a spacer before positioning the next tile (figure B). Use a regular spacer or a small piece of extra tile. Once each tile is in place, remove the spacer and reposition for the next tile.

    6. When all tiles are positioned, use a 100-lb. roller (figure C) to seat the tile into the adhesive. (Rollers can be rented for under $40 from most equipment and tool rental shops.) Go over each tile at least twice.

    7. With this adhesive and floor system you can begin grouting immediately. This floor system requires a special pre-mixed acrylic grout. Just like the tile, this grout is flexible. If the floor happens to flex, the tile and the grout won’t crack.

    8. Wear safety glasses, rubber gloves and knee pads during the grout application. First trowel the grout out of the plastic container right onto the tile, working it into the grout spaces (figure D).

    9. After application of acrylic grout on a 20 square foot section of the floor, use a sponge and clean water to wipe up the bulk of the excess grout. Once that’s done, dribble some clean water into the center of each tile, then wipe it with a mild scouring pad (figure E). After completing the first 20 square feet, move onto the next 20 square feet and repeat the process.

    10. Allow grout to dry thoroughly, which can take up to 24 hours. Once dry, use a water and ammonia mixture and wipe any haze still on the tiles.


    RESOURCES :

    Congoleum DuraCeramic Tiles
    Contact: Bob Dempsey
    Phone: 800-234-8811, ext. 3375
    E-mail: bdemsey@congoleum

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