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  • Turn-of-the-Century (2 of 3): Linoleum Installation
  • From "Kitchen Renovations"
    episode DKTN-203


    PHOTO

    Paul Ryan, host of Kitchen Renovations, starts a three-part project to convert this out-of-date kitchen...
    PHOTO

    in a house that the homeowners are restoring ...
    PHOTO

    into an authentically recreated Victorian kitchen ...
    PHOTO

    complete with period appliances and ...
    PHOTO

    new counters!
    In this segment the floor installers snap chalklines for the border of the floor and then it's cut and dry fit into place. And the new trim pieces are stained to match the woodwork.

    Materials and Tools:

    For Installing New Cabinets --

    Safety glasses
    Drill
    Spade bit
    Appropriate screw head bit
    Vix bit
    3" screws
    Tape measure
    Level
    Shims

    For Removal of Large Countertop --

    Safety glasses
    Gloves
    Small pry bar
    Hammer
    Japanese pull saw
    Wood chisel
    Impulse nailer
    Spade bit
    Drill
    Reciprocating saw

    For Prepping Underlayment Flooring --

    6" putty knife
    Hammer
    Knee pads
    Portland-based cement product
    Mud pan
    Orbital palm sander

    For Mapping Out Floor Plan --

    Chalk line
    Hair spray
    Tape measure

    For Laying Floor --

    Flooring, adhesive and sealer
    Utility knife or hook blade
    1/16" x 1/16" square notch trowel
    Hand roller
    Recessed scribing tool
    100 lb. roller
    advertisement


    PHOTO

    Figure A
    PHOTO

    Figure B
    PHOTO

    Figure C
    Prepping for Marmoleum Flooring

    Note: Marmoleum (figure A) "is" linoleum that's produced with 100-percent organic products. For more information on this product, scroll down to our Resources section at the bottom of the page.

    1. Run a scraper over the floor to make sure there no staples sticking up. If there are any just hammer them down.

    2. Mix the Portland-cement product (acting as the floor filler, which is water resistant, stable and dries quickly) to a peanut butter consistency.

    3. Using a mudding knife spread a thin layer over all the seams and low spots in the underlayment (figure B). Make it as smooth as possible so less sanding will be needed later.

    4. When dry, scrape off the excess with the putty knife. You still may need to do some sanding to get it smooth.

    5. Once seams are smooth, use a chalk line to indicate where borders are going to go (figure C).

      Professional Tip: In order to prevent the chalk from smudging, spray a bit of hairspray on the chalk line.


    PHOTO

    Figure D
    PHOTO

    Figure E
    PHOTO

    Figure F
    PHOTO

    Figure G
    Installing Marmoleum Flooring


    Note: Marmoleum can be brittle so you want it to be at 70 degrees for 48 hours before installation. Use a utility knife or special "hook" blade to cut the Marmoleum.


    1. When using smaller borders, you'll want to do them first because the trowel won't fit into the narrow space.


    2. Precut border pieces and dry fit them (figure D) first before gluing them down.


    3. Where the borders meet, cut a 45-degree angle to miter the joint. Use a speed square to get them just right (figure E).


    4. Take up the dry-fit borders. Use a 1/16" x 1/16" square notch trowel to spread the manufacturer's adhesive. Immediately lay down border pieces and use a hand roller to make sure all edges are down good and you have plenty of adhesive transfer.


    5. On the mitered corners do a bottom cut to overlap the top piece. Use a recessed scribing tool (figure F) to mark the top piece, then follow it with a utility knife and finish the cut with a hook blade to get a perfect cut.


    6. Loose lay the main flooring and rough cut it so it overlaps the border by about 1".


    7. Once the rough cut is done spread adhesive on one half of floor.


    8. Once the floor adhesive is down, half the material is then folded back to adhere (figure G). Do half the floor at a time to make the project more manageable. Use a 100-pound roller to make sure there is good adhesion and to get any air bubbles out.


    9. Once the entire floor is down, use an underscribe tool to make perfect cuts along each edge.


    10. After the entire floor is in, the last step is to put on a couple coats of acrylic sealer.


    In the final episode of the "Victorian Kitchen" renovation, Ryan and the homeowners will install the genuine soapstone sink and counters, install a pressed copper backsplash, put in a remodeling box, install period lighting and, finally, the new appliances will be brought in and installed.


    RESOURCES :

    Stanley Tools Information
    Stanley Tools/Works
    Website: www.stanleyworks.com

    Fiskars (Bucket Boss Division)
    Fiskars Bucket Boss Division
    Website: www.bucketboss.com

    Makita Products
    Makita USA Inc.
    Website: www.makita.com

    Paslode Nail Guns
    Paslode
    Website: www.paslode.com

    3M Painter's Masking Tape and Sanding Pad
    The 3M Company
    Website: www.3m.com

    Linoleum Floor Covering (Forbo Linoleum)

    Brand name: Marmoleum
    Model #s: 3830 and 3120
    Where available: See Forbo Linoleum information, below

    Miscellaneous Product Information:

    • Marmoleum is "not" vinyl. It's made from natural ingredients and it allergen-free.
    • The adhesives used to install Marmoleum are environmentally friendly.
    • There are 13 standard configurations and 100-plus colors in the design-it-yourself borders and corners.

    Forbo Linoleum
    Website: www.themarmoleumstore.com

    Custom Kitchen Cabinets (Minnesota Valley Cabinets)
    Color: Red Alder
    Minnesota Valley Cabinets
    Website: www.minnesotavalleycabinets.com


    GUESTS :

    Shane Kretsinger
    Vice President, Operations
    Autumn River
    We apologize no contact information is available.

    Tony Hall and Mike Hall
    Flooring Installers
    Floor Design
    2804 North Fairview
    Roseville, MN 55113
    Phone: 651-635-9924
    Website: www.floordesign.com

  • ALSO IN THIS EPISODE: