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  • Kitchen: Finishing the Backerboard and Tiling the Countertop
  • From "Tiling Techniques"
    episode DTIL-104


    PHOTO

    Paul adds color and splash to this white-on-white kitchen by...
    PHOTO

    tiling, of course!
    PHOTO

    The countertop backsplash features this glass tile.
    Materials:

    carpenter's pencils
    razor knife
    steel tape measure
    grout float
    notched trowel
    margin trowel
    hydra sponges
    two 5-gal. buckets
    tile cutter
    wet saw
    saw for cutting plywood
    backerboard cutter
    rubber gloves
    dry masonry saw
    1/2" drill motor
    rod-type mixer
    rubber mallet and beating block
    carpenter's square
    6' level
    chalk line and chalk
    safety glasses
    ear protection
    dust mask
    heavy gloves
    sealant gun
    Photo

    The tiling was extended to the border of the kitchen window.

    Photo

    An eye-catching final touch was this mosaic tile design above the stove.


    advertisement


    Attaching the Backerboard to the counter

    1. Mix the modified thin set to manufacturer's specifications, and apply it to the plywood with a notched trowel (figure A). Use the flat end of the trowel to push the thin set over the surface of the plywood. Then with the notched side of the trowel, comb through the thin set to get a uniform thickness.

    2. Lay the pre-cut backerboard panels on top of the plywood and thin set.

    3. Screw the backerboard into the plywood with backerboard screws 6" to 8" on center (figure B) in the field and along all the edges.

    4. Once the backerboard is adhered and fastened down, tape the field joints with an alkali-resistant backerboard tape (figure C). (Apply the thin set into the joints, put the tape on top and finish it off with the flat edge of a trowel.)
      Photo

      Figure A

      Photo

      Figure B

      Photo

      Figure C


      Tiling the Countertop

    5. Attach a temporary apron to the counter, and dry run the tiles on the counter leaving a grout joint. Mark with a pencil for chalk lines.

    6. On an L-shaped counter you have to start in the 90-degree corner (figure D).

    7. Measure the entire counter and chalk the lines. This way you can determine tile placement and cut any tile ahead of time. Use a carpenter's square to draw the lines through the chalk mark.

    8. Once you've finished chalking the lines and making the tick marks, you're ready to set the tile in place to cut the sink opening. Align the straight-cut tile with the mark so you can make the L-cut for the sink. The only difference in the L-cut is that you're removing some materials while leaving others. Make the marks on the tile (figure E) where the sink opening is. Take the other full tile and align it next to the marked tile, and make the same marks on the tile. Make an "x" on the material that needs to be removed when you cut the tiles.

      Note: On sinks that are self-rimming, remember that the rim will "cover" the opening where the tile is, and it will later be set into silicone so it'll be sealed.

    9. Cut the tiles with a wet saw (figure F).

      Safety Alert: Always be sure to wear eye protection and ear protection when working with a wet saw!
      Photo

      Figure D

      Photo

      Figure E

      Photo

      Figure F


      PHOTO

      Figure G
      PHOTO

      Figure H
      Applying Thin Set on the Counter

    10. Mix the thin set according to manufacturer's specifications.

      Note: Thin set should be mixed at a milkshake consistency, and remember that the mortar -- just like grout -- should always slake or stand for at least 15 minutes before using it.

    11. Pre-wet the backerboard with a damp sponge before the thin set is applied.

    12. Push the thin set onto the surface with the flat side of a trowel to key the mortar into the substrate. Then, holding the trowel at a 45-degree angle with the notched side down, comb the thin set to a uniform thickness.

    13. Backbutter the first field tile (figure G) and place on the countertop.

    14. As you did with the layout, start tiling at the apex of the L and work out from there. Make sure the tiles are level and only lay as much thin set as you can tile in 15 minutes.

    15. Lightly tap the tiles with a rubber mallet. If you tap too hard, you could break the tiles. If a tile is too high, lightly tap it down, and if a tile is too low, lift it, add some thin set and reset.

    16. Repeat the tiling steps for entire counter.

    17. Don't forget to clean joints (figure H) of excess thin set.

      Note: Let the tile set for 24 hours before setting anything on it.



    RESOURCES :

    Kitchen Tiling Products Information (Home Depot)

    Daltile (Sonterra Collection)
    Color: Kihea blue
    Model #: 283-208

    Daltile (Sonterra Collection)
    Color: Terra cotta
    Model #: 283-208

    Artisan II Collection "Beacon"
    13" x 13"
    Color: 600 terra cotta
    Model #: 384-058

    Grout (Custom)
    Quarry Red Clay (sanded for the field tiles and non-sanded for the glass tiles)
    Sanded Model #: 123-980 (25 lb. bag)
    Non-sanded Model #: 123-979 (10 lb. bag)

    Modified Thin-set Mortar (Custom)
    Note: Modified thin-set mortar was used for the countertop and mastic for the backsplash and wall.
    Mastic Model #: 610-062
    Thin Set Model #: 399-727

    Backerboard (Hardi Backer)
    1/4" Model #: 180-869
    1/2" Model #: 202-225

    The Home Depot U.S.A. Inc.
    Website: www.homedepot.com

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