In this segment, rosin paper is tacked down over the old vinyl floor. Shane Kretsinger (our contractor) explains how to correctly lay out the new pine floor. Host Paul Ryan demonstrates how to use the impulse nailer to begin installation of the flooring.Materials for Demo Kitchen:
Pencil
Safety glasses
Gloves
Dumpster
Hammer
Wonder bar
Small pry bar
Cordless drill
Appropriate screw bit
Materials for Sink Removal:
Safety glasses
Gloves
Small pry bar
Hammer
Small block of wood
Cordless drill
Appropriate screw bit
Materials for Appliance Removal:
Gloves
Appliance dolly
Materials for Preparing the Floor for Wood Installation:
Safety glasses
Broom
Shop vacuum
Roll of rosin paper
Utility knife
Hammer tacker
Staples
Materials for Wood Installation:
Selected wood floor product
Safety glasses
Knee pads
Tape measure
Chalk line
Compound miter saw
Impulse finish nailer
1-3/4" galvanized finish nails
Pneumatic flooring nailer and hammer
Flooring nails
Air compressor
Materials for Countertop Removal:
Safety glasses
Gloves
Small pry bar
Wonder bar
Reciprocating saw
2''x4'' wood fulcrum
Materials for Cabinet Modification:
Safety glasses
Pencil
Tape measure
6' level
Speed square
Japanese pull saw
Reciprocating saw
Hammer
Wonder bar
Small pry bar
Impulse finish nailer
Materials for Preparing and Painting Doors and Drawers Fronts:
Drop clothes
Fan
Respirator mask
Saw horses
Two long boards
Fine sanding pad
Tack cloths
Oil based primer
Oil based enamel paint
Brushes
Bucket
Box of rags
Installing Hardwood Pine FloorFor this particular installation project, Ryan and the homeowners decided to lay rosin paper down over the vinyl flooring instead of pulling up the vinyl. This would have taken forever, and the rosin paper works beautifully. It also prevents the floor from squeaking!
- To acclimate the hardwood-flooring planks to the humidity in your home, bring them indoor at least a week before installing.
- Lay down the rosin paper by rolling out the paper and overlapping each piece at least 6".
- Tack into place with hammer tacker (figure A).
- Lay out the wood floorboards and make sure they're straight. This is the hardest part of installing the wood floorboards. If you start out straight, the job will be much easier. To do this, find the longest common wall and make two marks out at an equal distance from the wall. Then snap a line through the marks to either end of the room.
- Choose the longest pieces of lumber and lay them along the line (figure B.
- Make sure the ends of the boards are tight and flush against each other -- otherwise slanting will occur and get worse as you go along.
- Face-nail boards using a gas-driven impulse nailer with 1-3/4" galvanized finish nails.
- Set the nailer to sink nails just below the surface (figure C). You will hide later with wood putty. Sink one nail every 6" to 8".
- Blind-nail the tongue of each plank as you lay them down using a flooring nailer (figure D).
- Cut the boards to length as you go using a chop saw or sliding compound miter saw.
- Use scrap pieces of wood to tighten boards together if needed.
In the next segment, Shane Kretsinger (our contractor) shows the homeowners how to reconfigure the cabinets using a Japanese pull saw. Then the sink is popped out and the old countertops are removed -- leaving the face frame.
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