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1. Mark the location of 6" upright supports on each shelf -- two for each shelf.

2. Use a plunge router (figure F)with a straight cutting edge to remove a ¼ groove in the bottom shelf and a 1/4 " groove on the underside of the top shelf.

3. Router all the way through the center shelf.

4. Building a simple jig will help make the routers consistent. For the jig, temporarily screw scrap wood stops in to sawhorses or work table.

5. The router goes inside the jig (figure G) and runs against the stops.

Assembling Shelves

1. Before nailing edges to shelves, dry fit and make adjustments as needed.

2. Run a bead of wood glue along the mitered edge of the shelf lip piece and set into place underneath the shelf (figure H).

3. Check the fit as you go by placing the side pieces into position before nailing.

4. Use finish nails in a nail gun to attach the lip to the shelf shooting down through the shelf. Shoot nails every couple of inches down through the shelf into the lip. Then, shoot more nails through the front of the lip at an angle, crossing the other nails.

5. To finish the shelf, attach the side pieces with glue and nails as before.

6. Finally, run a bead of glue along the one by two strip which acts as a cleat to nail the shelf into the wall studs

7. Set the back edge of the shelf onto the cleat, then nail together with nail gun. Allow wood glue to dry thoroughly.

Vertical Supports

1. Rip plywood to the width of your routers in shelves (6").

2. Use a round-over bit on the plunger to round all edges of 6" plank.

3. Use bar clamps to hold your work in place, then router both sides of the wood. Make a second pass if necessary to smooth out any rough spots.

4. Once the edges are done, cut the supports to length (in this case, 23").

5. Go over all flat surfaces of shelves and supports with a random orbital sander for a smooth finish.

1. Go over the shelf edges lightly by hand with fine-grit sandpaper. Be careful on the corners, taking care to make sure the edges are "crisp".

2. Stain the shelves with a water-based stain. Apply with rags, wiping on in the direction of the grain and rubbing it in well. Stain both sides.

3. To get into tight corners (figure I), wrap a rag around the point of a screwdriver, then apply.

4. Allow stain to dry, then apply a second coat as before. Fill visible nail holes with wood putty that matches the stain.

1. Mark position of the wall studs with blue tape.

2. Measure the height of the bottom shelf and transfer that mark across your wall using a level.

3. Hold the shelf against the wall on your level line (figure J) and transfer stud marks onto the cleat underneath the shelf

4. Use a countersink drill bit to pre-drill holes (figure K) on the marks. Pre-drill all shelves at once.

5. Mount the shelf on the wall by securing 3" screws into each stud. Use a telescoping pole to provide extra support for your shelf as you drill 3 evenly spaced holes into the routered portion of the bottom shelf.

6. Set upright shelf supports into the routers and secure with screws from underneath.

7. Pre-drill holes in upright supports for metal shelf pegs. Slip pegs into the holes to support the shelves above (figure L).

8. Add the middle shelf slots down on the vertical supports. Add the top shelf, making sure all are aligned correctly. Drill into the vertical supports to secure.

9. Add screws through the top for stability.

10. Once all your shelves are in place, screw 1 x 2 ledgers into the wall at desk height into the studs.

Professional Installation of Shelves: $2,000

Cost of Materials: $345

Amount Saved by Doing It Yourself: $1,655