DIY Network

Murphy Bed, Part 2 - Footboard From "Weekend Remodeling" episode WKR-210

	In part 1 of this project, host Fuad Reveiz covered the construction of the bookshelves.
	The second part covers the construction of the bed box, footboard the the securing of the bed to the wall.

With the bed box already created, it's time to measure, cut and assemble the pieces for the footboard.

Part 2 of the Murphy Bed construction rates a 3 on an intermediate remodeling scale.

Materials:

1 x 12 poplar
Medium Density Fiberboard (MDF)
Plywood
Trim
2 x 8
Screws, hardware, angle brackets, barrel bolts and casters
Paint (the same as used in part 1 of the project)
Utility knife
Pry bar
Circular saw
Jig saw
Compound miter saw
Drill and bits
T-square
2 ft. and 4 ft. levels
Router
Trim nailer
Clamps
Brad nailer
Sandpaper (optional: orbital sander)
Wood putty
Wood glue
Sliding bolts

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	Figure A
	Figure B
	Figure C
	Figure D

1. Begin by placing a level on the side rails of the bed box. Add some shims until the box is raised up just enough to be level. Once the bed box is level, measure the distance between the floor and the bottom of the bed box. Be sure to press the measuring tape to the floor surface (especially if on carpet) to be as accurate as possible.

2. Next, use the saw to rip MDF to 55" (in this example) for the width. Cut the front and bottom pieces according to measurements needed.

3. For the two end pieces, cut the profile of the footboard using a circular saw for the long cuts and a jig saw to finish. Then, use the jig saw to cut out a notch where the trim at the top of the moving wall will rest (figure A). Use the first piece as a template for the other end.

4. It's time to begin assembly. Start with the board that will be the back of the box. Add a support block to help hold the board to the bottom. Glue, then brad-nail, this support in place (figure B).

5. Attach casters to the underside of the bottom board (figure C). At this point, only put screws in two of the holes.

6. Next, attach back board with the support block to the bottom. Use clamps to secure the two boards together, then pre-drill the remaining holes in the casters. Use 2-1/2" screws through the casters to draw the support block tight.

7. Pre-drill and add screws along the edge between the casters for additional strength.

8. Lay the front piece down and use bar clamps to hold all three pieces together. Add long screws through the caster holes and in between.

9. At this point, a three-sided structure has been created. It's time to attach the end panels. A decorative panels is placed over the end and held in place with wood glue and brad nails. Next, a countersinking bit is used to pre-drill holes. The holes will be countersunk to be hidden from view.

10. Secure the panel with 2" wood screws (figure D). Measure up 1-3/4" from the bottom of the end boards to make sure the screws are precise. Next, turn the unit around and repeat the steps.

Next, Fuad will cover the addition of decorative trim to match the bookcases.

RESOURCES :

Murphyrooms.com
16400 Southcenter Parkway Suite 307
Seattle, WA 98188
Phone: 800-488-3540
Web site:www.murphyrooms.com
E-mail: sales@murphyrooms.com