DIY Network

Murphy Bed, Part 1 - Cutting the Pieces and Assembling the Inner Frame From "Weekend Remodeling" episode WKR-209

	Don't give up your home office ...
	... a Murphy Bed surrounded by bookcases makes a stylish stowaway that can be easily retrieved for overnight guests.
	Figure A

Many homes having limited space and homeowners often find themselves using a room for multiple purposes. An idea from the past springs back to life on this episode of Weekend Remodeling: a Murphy Bed. This type of bed is a stylish solution for rooms that do double-duty as home office and guest room. At the end of the day, simply move some furniture and pull down the bed to offer your guests a relaxing place to stay.

This project can be completed in two weekends, and rates 4 (or intermediate) on a 1-5 remodeling scale.

Here, host Fuad Reveiz will take you through the process for creating bookcases to surround the full-sized bed on this particular design. On WKR-210, Fuad will cover the bed storage construction.

Materials:

3/4" plywood
1/4" plywood
1 x 2 poplar pieces and poplar trim
Hinges
Pocket hole plugs
1-1/4" wood screws
3" wood screws
Glue
Putty
Primer
Paint in color of choice
Circular Saw
Compound miter saw
Drill with bits
Reciprocating saw
Levels - 2 ft. and 4 ft.
T-square
Pocket hole jig (figure A)
Drill press
Trim nailer
Brad nailers
Clamps
Sanding block
Utility knife
Pry bar
Rubbet mallet

advertisement

	Figure B
	Figure C
	Figure D
	Figure E
	Figure F
	Figure G

1. When creating a Murphy Bed, always work from a good plan and pre-cut all your wood before beginning. In this example, a compound miter saw is used to cut the pieces for the front of the bookcases to a vertical measurement of 95". After cutting the vertical pieces, cut a rabbit joint in each (figure B).

2. Use the table saw to rip the 95" boards to a 1-1/4" width.

3. Cut cross pieces to 15-5/8" that will connect the two sides of the shelving unit.

4. One side of each bookcase and the front will remain open. Cut 8" cross pieces to be used on the open sides.

5. Cut 3/4" plywood with a circular saw to create solid pieces for the outer sides. Cut the top, bottom and shelves from plywood.

6. Do a dry layout (figure C) to ensure that all of the cut pieces (face frames, inside frames, outside pieces, back pieces, shelves and tops and bottoms) follow your chosen plan.

7. In this example, the shelves will be assembled with "hidden" screws. First, use a drill bit with a stop. Set the stop, then use pocket hole jig and drill to create the holes. First, place the board in the jig along with a scrap piece of wood to hold it in place. Drill through the jig holes into the wood (figure D). The drill bit used not only drills the jig, but also leaves pilot holes in the end of the board in which screws will be secured later. Flip the board and repeat the drilling/jig technique for the opposite end. Continue until all pieces have been drilled.

8. Clamp vertical side pieces together. Measure and mark the area where shelves will be located. Use a T-square to mark a more defined line. Set cross pieces along the lines (figure E).

9. Secure cross pieces with 1-1/4" screws tightened into the pre-drilled pocket jig holes (figure F). Continue until all pieces have been added along the length of the frame. Continue the same process to assemble the front frame.

10. Use a little glue on the pocket hole plugs (figure G) to fill the holes after screws are in place. Use a rubber mallet to knock the plugs into place if necessary.

Next, Fuad will assemble the outside pieces of the shelves.

RESOURCES :

Murphyrooms.com
16400 Southcenter Parkway Suite 307
Seattle, WA 98188
Phone: 800-488-3540
Web site:www.murphyrooms.com
E-mail: sales@murphyrooms.com