DIY Network

Build a Dinner Table This long table will seat a crowd. You can adjust the size to fit your room and family. From "Man Caves" episode DMCV-113

The finished table finds its place in the Frank Sinatra Social Club.

Materials and tools:

five boards, 2" x 8" x 10', premium grade
four boards, 4" x 4" x 8', premium grade (untreated)
one 3/4" x 4" x 8' MDF
four 3" locking casters
16 3/8" x 6" lag screws with flat washers
table saw
miter saw
circular saw
belt or orbital sander
router with round-over bit
16-gauge nail gun with 2" nails
drill with long 1/4" bit and 1-1/4" Forstner bit
wood glue
1-1/2" to 1-3/4" wood screws
36" pole or bar clamps (8–10)

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Cut list:

4x4s for the table base
two 94" long supports (square both ends)
two 30" bottom braces
two 29-1/2" top braces
two 18" middle uprights (connect the top and bottom braces)

2" x 8" x 10's for the table top
five 6-1/2" x 112" (rip boards to 6-1/2", then square both ends to 112")

2" x 4" x 8'
four 1/2" x 2" x 8' (rip board into 1/2" 'slices')

3/4" x 4" x 8' MDF for the table top base
one 30-1/2" x 8' (rip sheet to 30-1/2")

Steps:

1. Cut the lumber according to the cut list. Make sure both ends of the long supports and the middle uprights are square. Plane the 2" x 8" x 10' boards so that the surfaces are smooth. Pre-drill the 22-3/4" end uprights for lag screws.

2. Lay one of the 22-2/4" uprights on a work table. Place a bottom brace against the upright so that the upright forms the base of an L. Drill two holes through the upright and into the bottom brace, making sure to hold the pieces square while you drill. Use wood glue and two 6" lag screws to attach the bottom brace and the upright. Flip over the L and attach another upright to the other end of the bottom brace, forming a U-shaped assembly. Use the same method to attach the top brace to the uprights, forming a rectangle.

3. Use glue and lag screws to join one end of the middle upright to the center of the bottom brace and the other end to the center of the top brace. Do the same with the other upright. You'll now have a vertical support in the middle of the rectangle, which forms one of the leg sections. Note: Make sure to pre-drill and countersink the lag screws. Repeat the process to make the second leg section.

4. Attach each end of the long supports to the leg sections. Attach one long support in the center, flush to the top. Attach the other long support flush to the bottoms of the middle uprights. Use wood glue and 6" lag screws, as in step #3.

5. Attach the bottom plates to the ends of the uprights with glue and screws. Attach the four casters to the bottom plates with 1" to 1-1/2" pan-head screws. You now have the table base completed (figure A).

Figure A

6. Cut the MDF according to the cut list. Center the MDF on the top of the table base and attach it with glue and 2" wood screws. The table top will sit on and attach to the MDF.

6. Cut the 2x8s according to the cut list. Use a router to make a 1/2" dado 1" deep along both sides of three of the 2x8s and on one side of the other two. Glue the 1/2" x 2" x 8' strips into the dadoes to form a tongue-and-groove assembly. Put glue along the edges of the 2x8s and join them by fitting the tongues into the grooves. Clamp the five pieces together with 36" bar clamps spaced every 10 to 12 inches. Let the glue dry completely. Note: Make sure the table top remains flat while it dries.

8. After the glue dries, remove the clamps and sand the table top with a belt sander and/or orbital sander. Use a router to round over the edge of the table top. Stain the table top and table base.

9. Center the table top on the MDF. Glue it in place. With 1-3/4" wood screws, attach the table top by screwing from underneath through the MDF into the bottom of the table top. Note: Depending on the door size, you may need to bring the table top and base into the room separately before attaching them.