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  • Concrete Flooring: Acid Staining
  • From "Rock Solid"
    episode DROC-103


    Acid staining the concrete floor is going to change the floor from what looks like a stucco job to a buckskin colored floor with caramel marbling. Acid staining is a process that will enhance any clean concrete floor, whether your floor is new or old, hand trowelled or machine trowelled.

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    PHOTO

    The space lacked character and nuance...
    PHOTO

    with average, everyday tiling.
    PHOTO

    So, Derek and Dean called on concrete experts Jason and Brandon...
    PHOTO

    to help with installing concrete flooring...
    PHOTO

    which added warmth and texture to this Maryland kitchen.
    Materials:

    Demo

    Chipping hammer
    Hammer
    Chisel
    Safety glasses
    Screw gun
    Roofing rake
    Flat shovel
    Shop vac.
    Brooms
    Dust pan
    Plastic wrap or clear plastic
    Tape

    Preparation and Application

    No. 30 asphalt felt
    Metal lath
    1.5 in. galvanized finish staples
    1.5 in. finish stapler
    Heavy duty 2h 4 gal. oil-lube compressor
    Air hose for compressor
    Utility knife w/blades
    Safety glasses
    12 in. all purpose pattern snips
    Heavy duty work gloves
    Hammer
    Elite Crete Texture Pave
    Elite Crete Portion Control Colorant (optional)
    Several 5 gal. buckets
    Heavy duty 1/2 in. drill w/ low speed and min. 500 rpm
    4 in. paint and mud mixer
    Squeegee
    Gauge rake
    1 1/2 in. putty knife
    Several measuring containers of various sizes – 10 qt., 2.5 qt., and smaller
    Mask

    Finish

    Elite Crete Thin finish
    Elite Crete Portion Control Colorant (Color: desert beige)
    Several clean 5 gal. buckets
    Heavy Duty 1/2 in. drill w/ low speed and min. 500 rpm
    4 in. paint and mud mixer and
    Squeegee
    2 in. paint brushes
    22 in. hand trowel
    Several measuring containers of various sizes – 10 qt., 2.5 qt., and smaller
    All-plastic 2 gal. pump sprayer

    Acid Staining

    Acid stain
    High gloss clear sealer
    Ammonia – 1 gal.
    Clean mops and bucket
    5 gal. bucket with spreader screen
    Paint roller with extension handle
    2 in. painter's tape
    Roll of 12 in. masking paper
    Commercial shop vac.
    2 – 2 gal. all-plastic pump sprayers (such as a gardening pesticide sprayer or deck sprayer)
    Safety glasses
    Rubber gloves

    PHOTO

    Figure A
    PHOTO

    Figure B
    Acid Staining

    1. If you are acid staining a pre-existing concrete floor, remove all baseboards and trim work that might be damaged by the stain mixture.

    2. The first step is to cover the walls using twelve inch masking paper, to protect your walls from discoloration during the acid staining process (figure A). Cover all walls and exposed lower cabinets. Remove the knobs on bottom cabinets and cover the metal screws with painter's tape (figure B).

    3. To attach the masking paper to your wall quickly, wrap your painter's tape around your finger, so that both sides have adhesive on them, tack a piece on the wall every six to eight inches. Pull the paper tightly across the wall, and secure the paper on the top every 12 inches with another piece of painter's tape.

    4. Mix your acid stain mixture outdoors or in a place with good ventilation. Hydrochloric acid is the main ingredient in the staining mixture, so wear protective glasses and gloves. Pour your acid stain into a two gallon pump with all plastic parts. It is important that there be no metal on the applicator or spray wand because hydrochloric acid is corrosive to metal.

    5. For hand trowelled floor, dilute the stain with water using a ratio of one part stain to four parts water. For machine trowelled floors, the mixture will be more concentrated at a ratio of one part stain to one part water. Adding water will also allow you to control your depth of color. Applications vary with product, however, so be sure to check with the manufacturer.

    6. Test your acid stain outside first. This will start your sprayer and ensure that you have a nice even flow of stain. Now you’re ready to spray inside.

    PHOTO

    Figure C
    7. When applying the acid stain to the floor, keep your spray wand about 18 inches above the floor, spray in a random pattern, and get the floor thoroughly wet (figure C), but without puddles.

    8. The acid in the stain reacts with the lime deposits in the cement floor giving it multiple hues. Areas where there’s more lime in the cement will render darker hues of color.

    9. You want to allow the first coat to dry completely for about an hour, and then apply a second coat. Repeat this process until the floor reaches the desired color.

    10. Once you get the color you like, and let it dry, it’s time for clean-up. Because the hand trowelled floor is porous, Jason neutralizes the hydrochloric acid stain on the floor by spraying the floor with a mixture that is four parts water and one part ammonia. Apply this ammonia-water mixture with a clean two gallon plastic pump sprayer.

    PHOTO

    Figure D
    11. Allow the floor to dry again and then thoroughly clean the floor using a clean mop. Shop vac up any extra water (figure D), and allow the floor to completely dry before sealing.

    12. Dean and Derek used a clear high gloss water-based sealer to seal the floor, though other options include waxing the floor or using a solvent based sealer. Applications differ with products, so be sure to check with the manufacturer if completing your project with something other than a water-based sealer. Sealing the floor protects the concrete from food and everyday wear as well as enhancing the color of the acid stained floor.

    PHOTO

    Figure E
    13. Pour the sealer into a five gallon bucket and attach a metal screen to the edge of it. Using a paint roller, apply the sealer to the floor. Remove any excess sealer from the brush by rolling it on the screen before applying it to the floor. You want to apply the sealer in thin coats (figure E). Applying multiple thin coats rather than one thick coat to ensure a better bond. The water-based sealer has a whitish tint that will dry clear. Reapply the sealer until you reach the desired finish, usually two coats will suffice.

    14. After the floor has completely dried for 24 hours, remove the masking paper, reapply baseboards and trim and enjoy your floor!


    RESOURCES :

    Concrete Floor Products
    Elite Crete Texture Pave
    Elite Crete Thin Finish
    Elite Crete Portion Control Colorant (Color: desert beige)
    Brand Name: Elite Crete
    Website: www.elitecrete.com

    Concrete Acid Stain Products
    Kemiko Stone Tone Stain (Color: malay tan)
    Kemiko Stone Tone Sealer
    Brand Name: Kemiko
    Website: www.kemiko.com

    Tools
    Home Depot
    Website: www.homedepot.com


    GUESTS :

    Jason Thoelke, Owner
    Brandon Hobbs, Supervisor
    Creative Concrete Solutions, Inc.
    1210 Hogan Ln.
    Conway, AR 72034
    Phone: 501-764-4477
    Fax: 501-764-1534
    E-mail: ccs.conway@aol.com

  • ALSO IN THIS EPISODE: