DIY Network

Installing Ceramic Floor Tile From "DIY to the Rescue" episode DTTR-304F

Because the tile will go over hardwood, which can be uneven and cause the tile to eventually buckle and crack, host Amy Devers and homeowner Vanessa Gauly will first install a cement backerboard to even the floor surface. After the backerboard is in place, matte and gloss ceramic tile will be installed in a diagonal pattern to give the hallway floor visual interest.

Materials:

Pry bars
Hammer
Screw drivers
Utility knife
Straight edge
Safety goggles
Gloves
Pliers
wrench
Cement backerboard (hardiboard is one)
Circular saw w/ carbide tip
Carbide tip scoring tool (optional)
Snapper steelhead shear (optional)
Respirator-type face mask
Drill with masonry bit
Thinset mortar (as specified by backerboard manufacturer)
3/8" notched trowel
1-1/4" nails or screws, as recommended by backerboard manufacturer
Pneumatic nail gun w/ 1 ¼" nails (or hammer & nails)
Alkali resistant glass fiber mesh reinforcement tape (optional, as recommended by manufacturer)
Tape measure
Chalk line
Tiles (these are installed in diagonal design, 10% more than necessary was ordered in anticipation of cut mistakes and wastage)
Tile spacers
Multi-purpose thinset mortar
Transition hardware (metal strips for doorway transitions)
Wet saw or tile cutter (our tiles were 14" & too large for our tile cutter so we rented a wet saw)
Tile nippers
Sanded grout (this grout has some sand in it – preferred for floors)
Grout float
Towels
Water
Sponges

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Figure A

1. First, remove the carpet (figure A). Use prybar, hammer, screwdriver to remove shoe molding, pull up the existing carpet and remove tack strips. Be sure to wear eye protection and gloves.

2. Use hammer or pliers to remove remaining staples or nails.

3. Use utility knife and straight edge to cut carpet in surrounding rooms at doorways, as necessary. Close the door and mark the area covered. Cut in the center of that measurement so that the transition from tile to carpet won't be seen when door is closed.

4. Remove doorways as needed to make tiling the room easier. Doors may have to be trimmed at the bottom to accommodate the new tiled floor, especially after backerboard is installed.

5. The total thickness of the subfloor and underlayment should measure at least 1-1/8" thick. A strong subfloor under the tile will keep the ceramic tiles from cracking. Backerboard works best. Before installing backerboard, check subfloor to make sure it isn't warped, loose or damaged.

6. In this Rescue, a fiber-cement backerboard will be installed. It's water-resistant, cuts easily and is available in several sizes and thicknesses. Here, 1/2" backerboard is used in the hallway and 1/4" is used in the bathroom to create a level transition.

7. To cut the backerboard, use a carbide tip scoring tool, circular saw with a carbide tip, or Snapper Steelhead Shear. Wear eye protection and respirator-type face mask when cutting the backerboard.

Figure B

8.Next, use a notched trowel to apply a leveling bed of thinset mortar (figure B) over the subfloor and embed the backerboard sheets into the adhesive. Spread mortar to about 3/16" thickness. Add more mortar as necessary to fill sunken areas.

	Figure C
	Figure D

9. Position the backerboard in an offset pattern. Do not align sheet with subfloor joint. None of the four corners should ever meet. In a narrow hallway, such as this one, the boards can be installed in a line. Follow the nailing pattern printed on the backerboard by the manufacturer. Here, a nail gun is used to secure the nailboard around the perimeter and at all supporting studs at about 8" intervals (figure C). Make sure nails or screws are below the board surface. Wear safety goggles when using the nail gun.

10. In some cases, backerboard must be taped with 2" wide fiberglass mesh reinforcing tape. This disperse movement of the boards and decreases the likelihood of cracked tiles along the seams.

11. Once the backerboard is secured, measure and snap chalk lines to create necessary guidelines (figure D), particularly down the center.

12. Cut threshold strips and transitions as necessary. Here, a metal threshold strip designed for tile to hardwood floor transitions is used.

13. Dry-fit the first rows of tiles to make sure to create the desired design layout and have appropriate guidelines. Use tile spacers to account for 1/8"grout lines. Mark the area and tile points and remove the dry-fitted tiles.

14. Using a 3/8" notched trowel, spread mortar over the area of the first few rows, leaving room to work and to see any grid marks. Spread mortar with the flat side of the trowel and then use the edge of the trowel, at a 45-degree angle, to create wide grooves in the mortar.

15. Imbed metal transition strip into mortar at doorway.

	Figure E
	Figure F

16. Position tiles, adding spacers between (figure E). Press tiles into mortar (figure F). Check the level of adjoining tiles. This can be done using a straight board.

17. Cut tiles as necessary. Most tiles can be cut using a tile cutter – a tool that slides over the tile to score it. The tile is then pressed and snapped to break along the scored line. Another way to cut tiles is to use a wet saw or water saw, which can be rented from home centers, hardware stores and tile stores for about $30/day. A wet saw keeps the blade wet as it’s cutting, keeping it cool and lubricated for nice, even cuts. Be sure to wear appropriate safety protection when using a wet saw.

18. After the tile is cut, use tile nippers to make intricate cuts and patterns for areas around molding and fixtures. Snap off small tile pieces as necessary.

19. Continue applying mortar, laying tiles, and checking the design and layout as you go.

20. Do not walk back over tiles that have been installed. The mortar needs to dry overnight. If necessary, such as in the Gulay's hallway, build a bridge that spans the area to get across the newly installed tile.

21. After the mortar has completely set, remove the tile spacers and use a screwdriver or such tool to dig out any excess mortar in the grout lines. Clean up debris.

Figure G

22. Mix grout and have towels, sponges and a bucket of water on hand. Begin by spreading grout over a tiled area, and use the edge of a grout float to push the grout into the tiled crevices (figure G). Make sure to push grout into all grout lines. Move excess grout to new areas. Be careful not to disturb grouted areas.

23. When the grout on top of the tile turns powdery, it can be sponged away. Use towels to buff away any grout film after sponging. The grout in the grout lines may not be dry at this point so be careful not to disturb it.

24. When the grout has dried, re-install shoe and doorway transition molding as needed.

RESOURCES :

Empire Series Tile
14" x 14" VS80 Corsican Creme, half polished (PO) and half un-polished (UP)
Crossville Porcelain Stone
Website: www.crossvilleinc.com