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  • Baseboard Installation
  • From "DIY to the Rescue"
    episode DTTR-302F


    With the flooring down, it's time to lay the baseboards to cover the expansion gaps and add a finished look to the room.

    Baseboard Joints 101

    First, here's a quick primer on the different types of joints that can be created when installing baseboards.

    • Butt joint:a simple 90-degree joint best used when the new baseboard will die directly into a door casing.

    • Miter joint:Outside corner

    • Coped joint: Inside corner joint. One piece will go directly into the corner as a butt joint (flush against wall). The intersecting piece will be cut at a 45-degree angle. The profile along the cut will be coped with a coping saw to allow the piece to fit snugly against the butt joint and form a nice inside corner.

    • Scarf joint: A joint in the center of the wall where the two pieces meet. Cut to 45-degrees.

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    PHOTO

    Figure A
    PHOTO

    Figure B
    PHOTO

    Figure C
    PHOTO

    Figure D
    Baseboard Installation:


    Materials:


    Baseboard
    Tape measure
    Pencil
    Coping saw
    Power chop saw
    Finish nails
    Safety glasses
    Utility knife
    Combination square
    Putty
    Caulk


    1. Cut the first piece. Start on a long wall. If you have a piece of molding that is longer than the actual wall, then you can do this first wall with just one strip. Cut each end at 90-degrees to run directly into each side's perpendicular wall. To match two pieces in a scarf joint, try to cut the pieces so that (installed) they will sit on a stud. Nail your piece into the wall at the studs (figure A). At each stud drive one nail in towards the top of the base, on a raised portion of the profile (this will make it easier to fill later). Then drive the second nail in (at each stud) towards the bottom, and angle it down into the floor.


    2. Next, cut the second piece, but first measuring the distance between the door casing and the wall. This small piece will butt against the door casing and needs a 90-degree angle cut on one side. Cut the other side at a 45-degree angle (figure B) and highlight the profile of the cut with your pencil. This will make it easier to follow with your coping saw to complete the coped joint. Cut along the profile to make a back bevel cut (at least at a 90-degree angle) just short of the profile -- about 1/16". Finish taking off the remaining back bevel with your half-round and three-square files until the piece sits squarely against your first piece with no gap.


    3. For the next wall, the left side of the strip will be a 45 degree cut: cope out the back bevel for another nice coped joint. Leave the right side slightly longer than the corner, so that you can mark it once you've set the new piece in, with its coped left side jointed temporarily. Mark it so that the front of the molding (the outside of the cut) will end about 1/8" from the corner of the wall. Now cut a small sliver and glue it to the end for a mitered return. You don't need to nail this piece and will probably split it if you do.


    4. Continue to measure, cut and install the base molding around the room. When you get to an outside corner, set the first piece a bit long on the wall and mark it by setting your try square or combination square against the surface of the wall it meets. Before nailing it in place, mark the second piece the same way. Now check to see that the mitered ends close. Use 1-1/4" or 1-1/2" brads to close the corner.


    5. Use wood putty (figure C) to fill in holes and gaps in baseboards. Use caulk along the top of baseboards to fill area near wall (figure D).

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