DIY Network

Hardwood Floor with Tile Inlay: Building the Tile Inlay Frame From "Weekend Remodeling" episode WKR-208

	Before: This dining room with parquet flooring and carpet looks fine, but is a bit bland.
	After: The new hardwood is a stylish addition, and the tile inlay provides a focal point to draw attention to the dining area.

With the old flooring removed, host Fuad Reveiz demonstrates the construction of a hardwood frame that will surround the tile inlay and create the perfect transition to the surrounding wood floor.

On a scale of 1-5, with 5 being most difficulty, this project rates a 2.

Materials:

Roofing felt
Hardwood flooring
Shoe molding
Cement Board
Screws
Tile
Spacers
Grout
Drill
Circular saw
Floor hammer
Mallet and regular hammer
Level and framing square
Chalk line
Nail gun and nails
Flat pry bar
Notched trowel
Tape measure and pencil
Couple of buckets
Water
Soft rubber float
Rags
Sponge
Utility knife
Pliers
Rubber gloves

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	Figure A
	Figure B
	Figure C
	Figure D
	Figure E
	Figure F
	Figure G
	Figure H
	Figure I

1. First, roll out 15-lb. asphalt roofing felt onto the sub-floor and secure with staples (figure A). Overlap the felt while moving across the floor. Make sure all of the sub-floor gets covered during this process.

2. Measure the tiles to be used. In this example, the tiled area will measure roughly 80" x 100". Whole tiles can be used without making any cuts. However, in your home, tiles may need cutting to fit properly, or tiles of a different size can be used.

3. Next, drop a plumb line through the lighting fixture above (if your dining room lighting fixture will be over the inlay area). Twist the end of the plumb line together to allow it to drop directly under the center of the light (figure B), which also indicated the center of the table and the tile inlay.

4. Once the plumb is perfectly positioned, its location is marked onto the sub-floor surface (figure C). Measure half of the width of the tile area from the center point to determine one side and mark position. Strike a chalk line on those marks.

5. To determine the length of the tiled space, again measure half the total distance from the center point toward the end. Use a framing square to check the line, then snap a second chalk line to mark position (figure D).

6. Measure from the chalk lines in both directions and strike remaining two chalk lines to designate the tile inlay area.

7. Double-check corners to make sure all are square. In this example, an area has been created that will accommodate 4 tiles in one direction and 5 in the order while accommodating 1/8" grout joints.

8. Cut the boards that will make the corners of the tile inlay frame at 45-degree angles (figure E). Set the boards on the chalk line and secure to the floor using a trim nailer and 8 penny-finish nails. Direct the nails both into the face of boards, then into the tongue at an angle.

9. Continue setting the hardwood boards along the chalk lines until the entire border is set in place (figure F).

10. Next, set a board along the outside edge of the frame (figure G) to act as a guide while working down the short section of the wall (Note: the following instructions might not be the same for your room. In this example, the tile inlay won't be directly centered in the work area, so there will be longer and shorter areas in which the hardwood will be installed around the frame).

11. Measure, then use miter saw to cut the hardwood lengths to size. On the first board, insert a spline to act as a "tongue" to which the next board can be attached

12. Start placing the boards and nail in place using the floor nailer. Once the end of the first run has been reached, install boards down the long side of the border and begin working toward the outside wall (in this example, this might vary in your room).

13. Lay out boards as you move along to help speed the process. Cut boards to fit around vents or other electrical or architectural features, then install notched boards (figure H). Proceed with full boards beyond this area. Nail boards with a trim nailer (figure I).

14. As you round the corner, change the "groove" back to a "tongue" by inserting another spline. Begin working backwards toward the center of room and away from the door.

15. In this example, the dining room is bordered by a carpeted hallway and den. Fuad cuts the boards to fit exactly along the carpeted edge of the den; do the same for your area.

16. Continue positioning and securing boards until you have worked your way back to the original area and have enclosed the "picture frame" area for the tile.
    

RESOURCES :

Armstrong Brichall Flooring Information

Armstrong Floors
Website: www.armstrong.com

Crossville Ceramics Porcelain Stone/USA
Website: www.crossville-ceramics.com/