DIY Network

Finishing the Laminate Flooring Installation From "Floors, Doors & Windows" episode DFDW-101

Hosts Jay Baker and Scott Branscom show how to fit planks around obstructions in this segment of DIY's Floors, Doors and Windows workshop.

Materials:

Laminate flooring
Pullbar
Tapping block
Spacer blocks
Underlayment
Jigsaw
Miter saw
Baseboard
Finish nailer
Standard carpentry tools: hammer, tape measure, etc.

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	Figure A
	Figure B
	Figure C
	Figure D
	Figure E
	Figure F
	Figure G
	Figure H

• If there is a radiator pipe or any other obstruction that cannot be moved, depending on where it is, you want to measure the board over to the pipe, etc. If the obstruction is near the end, you want to measure from the end of your last board over to the center of the obstruction. The object is to have two planks together and have the hole in the center of the two planks. Once you have the dimension of the first plank and then the next plank, you can measure over the distance from the wall and make a mark on both sides of the obstruction (figure A)

  
  

• Use the proper hole saw to drill a hole in between the two planks (figure B).

  
  

• Once sawed, you can fit the pieces around the obstruction (figure C). Use elastic acrylic paste to fill the gap around the hole.

  
  

• Cut the tongues off the planks that will be closest to the walls, stagger the joints as you go for a natural look and cut planks to fit at the ends of the rows.

  
  Note: Remember to mix up the planks from different packages as you work. This will give you more random grain patterns in the floor and make it look more natural, too. If you have to tap any planks into place, always use the supplied tapping block (figure D) and tap gently so you don't damage the planks.

  
  

• When installing pieces around a corner (figure E), a jigsaw is the best tool for the job. Just install the pieces round the corners using the tapping block and pullbar.

  
  

• To install planks around a floor vent, remove the grate without damaging it. You can buy another grate if you damage it, but it is best to work with what you have. The grate can then be moved up the wall.

  
  

• The final row of planks is installed using the pullbar (figure F), and then you can reinstall the heat vents. They are a little higher now than they were before, but it won't hurt anything.

  
  

• There are two types of transition molding. One is a T-molding (figure G) and you would use it if one surface of the floor is the same height as the other surface. The other type is a reducer (figure H) and would be used if there is step down and one surface is a little lower than the other surface.

  
  

• Slide the transition strip into place and mark it so you can notch it so it will slide into place.

RESOURCES :

Quick-Step Flooring
Website: www.quick-step.com

Flooring Projects and Techniques
0865736790
Cy DeCosse Inc.
(January 1997)

To order this title from Amazon, click here.

Creative Publishing International

Flooring 1-2-3: Expert Advice on Design, Installation and Repair
0696215888
The Home Depot
(June 2003)

To order this title from Amazon, click here.

The Home Depot