Jay Baker and Scott Branscom, the hosts of DIY's Floors, Doors and Windows workshop, show you how to lay this beautiful laminate flooring.
Baker and Branscom also share tips and details on getting the floor prepared.
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Figure A
Figure B
Figure C
Figure D
Figure E
Laminate flooring is just like hardware flooring, it has a tongue and groove system -- you just slide tongue into the groove and it snaps right into place. There are a couple of applications where the wood will not rotate right into place. When you are against the wall or a doorjamb, you won't have any leverage. There is a special tool called a pullbar to help with that. It has a little lip that goes down into the edge of the carpet against the wall with a place to hammer on the other end of the tool (figure A). You continue hammering until it clicks together.
You never want to hit the side of the laminate flooring with a hammer (even a rubber hammer) because you might damage either the tongue or groove. There is a block available for that purpose (figure B). You put it down against the side of the laminate and then you give it a tap. This way, you do not have to worry about damaging the block. You just keep tapping it until it fits together.
There is a product called under floor membrane. It goes under the laminate flooring and it takes out any of the unevenness of the floor and it absorbs sound.
Laminate flooring is mostly wood and you will need to leave a space all the way around the room. This allows it to expand and contract. You have baseboard and quarter round that come with the kit that will cover up that space. Spacers come with the flooring (figure C) and you can use them by themselves or in conjunction with one another because there are ridges to hold them together. They are necessary, so be sure and use them.
You need to make sure you have plenty of material for your project. Measure the room and then draw a floor plan layout to help you determine how much quarter round, baseboard and transition material you will need. Compensate for your mistakes in advance and purchase extra flooring in case you make any mistakes. Also, make sure your supplier has excess to plenty in case of even more mistakes! Those measurements will also apply to your underlayment. There are different types of underlayment for different floors (cement, wood and vinyl) -- so make sure you purchase the right type for your floor.
Once you are ready to begin, the first step is the get rid of your old flooring. Remove the baseboard and quarter round. Be careful when removing it (figure D) so that you won't have to do a lot of wall repairs later.
Pry up the carpet from the tack strips. Be careful working around the strips because they are very sharp. Gently remove the strips (figure E) because you do not want to damage your sub-floor too much. Serious damage means you will have to replace parts of it or fill deep gouges with floor leveling compound.
Inspect the wooden floor. It has to be stable. Nail down any loose parts and screw any loose boards to the floor joists to prevent the floor squeaking.