DIY Network

1903 Victorian: Rebuilding the Fireplace From "Restoration Realities" episode DRTR-109

	A 1903 Victorian in Wilmington, NC, and the home of Helen and Rick Williams.
	Media Watch a video recap of this restoration project

In this episode, DIY's Restoration Realities visits Wilmington, North Carolina and the 1903 Victorian home of Rick and Helen Williams. The project is the restoration of an upstairs fireplace the couple discovered behind a wall that had been added by one of the previous owners.

In this second segment, Rick and Bill get go through the steps of demolishing a wall that conceals the original fireplace, and restoring the fireplace in preparation for a new mantle.

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Removing and Replacing the Unwanted Wall

Important: Before demolishing or removing any existing wall, first be absolutely certain that it is not a load-bearing wall.

• Remove the existing wood trim around the closet opening. Save it for possible reuse around the door opening adjacent to the fireplace.

• Begin by demolishing the existing wood-frame wall and drywall. There's no neat or easy way to do this. A sledgehammer will get you started braking up the drywall. Hammers and prybars will help in separating and removing the drywall, old trim, metal corner-beads, moldings, etc. (figure A).

• A reciprocating saw is the ideal tool for tearing through support 2x4 wall-joists or studes to cut them up for removal (figure B).

  Figure A

  Figure B

  
  

  
  

• Continue by removing the studs and other materials until the wall is gone (figured C and D).

  Figure C

  Figure D

  
  

• Once the wall was removed, it was revealed that the brick used in the fireplace was second-hand brick (figure E) -- never intended to be exposed. The ceiling and paint-lines (figure F) indicate that, aside from the wall that was just removed, an original wall was once in place to conceal the bricks. This original design is what will be followed as a plan for the restoration. The original framing will be repaired, and the empty area to the left of the fireplace will be turned into a closet to match the closet that already exists on the right side.

  Figure E

  Figure F

  
  

• With the old wall removed, work begins on framing the new wall to replace the original one that concealed the fireplace brick. Standard framing lumber is used, and some of the boards are turned flat (figures G and H) so that the new wall will be flush with the firebox face the adjacent wall -- just as it was when the house was first built.

  Figure G

  Figure H

  
  

• The wall is extended to create a new closet. Parts of the old wall have to be cut away to extend the plane of the new wall. The reciprocating saw comes in handy once again for this task (figure I).

• Once the wall is framed up (figure J), it's ready for the drywall phase to begin. Rick and Helen also special-ordered cut granite for the hearth and fireplace surround. That will be installed after the drywall.

  Figure I

  Figure J

  
  

• To install the drywall, first apply construction adhesive to the studs.

• Place the first sheet at the top of the wall, and secure it with drywall screws (figure K), placing a screw about every 8 to 10 inches. We used a special screw-gun made specifically for drywall installation, but a standard cordless drill with screwdriver attachment can be used as well.

• For the second (lower) piece of drywall, a piece must be cut out using a hand saw to leave the fireplace exposed (figure L).

• Once all of the drywall is in place, drywall mud and tape are applied over the seams. The mud is allowed to dry overnight.

  Figure K

  Figure L

  
  

  Figure M

The firebox of the old fireplace had sustained some damage in past years and some of the fire-brick was broken and missing (figure M). The objective is to build the hearth up so that the bottom of the remaining brick can be used as a base. The granite will be used for a hearth and surround, leaving only the brick directly over the fireplace opening exposed. (Recall that, when finished, this will not be a functional fireplace, but will simply be decorative, so it's not necessary to completely re-build the firebox as it would for a functioning fireplace.)

	Figure N
	Figure O

• Remove the damaged fire-brick from the fireplace box.

• Install infill framing in the opening. Fit it flush to the height of the existing floor joists.

• Cut OSB (oriented striated board) or plywood to fit the area between open floor and the existing fireplace box (where the hearth will be).

• Lay down two layers of the OSB and nail down using 8d nails at 8" on-center.

• Install a 1/4" to 3/8" backer-board (fiberglass-reinforced concrete) cut to fit over the OSB or plywood, and to cover the damaged floor of the original firebox (figure N). Dry fit in place before installation, then secure it using substrate screws.

• Mix and apply a layer of thin-set mortar to the concrete surface where the granite will be installed (figure O).
  

• Set the granite hearth in place (figure P) and allow the mortar to set up.

• Apply mortar to the back of the granite side-pieces and set them in position at the edge of the firebox (figure Q).

  Figure P

  Figure Q

  
  

  Figure R

• Place the last piece of granite in position on top of the two granite "legs," and adjust them to match the top (figure R).

• Once the installation is complete, clean the granite surface using damp rags.

• Allow 24 hours for the mortar to set up fully.

• Mold and cut trim around perimeter of durorock on floor surface.

• Prepare limestone or Marble fireplace surround. Cut the pieces to width and height.

• Mix and apply thinset to the existing face of the fireplace box. Secure and set the limestone or marble face pieces in place and allow to setup for at least 24 hours.
  

  	Rick pitches in on demolishing a wall that conceals one of the house's original fireplaces
  	The restored fireplace with new granite hearth.

Patching Walls

• Prep walls by scraping down and loose paint, bumps, caulking, and other wall obstructions.

• Mix 20-minute wall compound and fill holes where required.

• Sand, fill and finish as required.

Using a wire brush, brush away loose dust, plaster. If further cleaning is required, Muratic acid may be used to clean up stubborn plaster spots and restore the face of the brick. A brick cleaner may then also be used to enhance the surface as well.

Safety Alert: Always wear eye protection when working with power tools or pneumatic tools.

Note: This is a summary of steps included in the procedures shown in this episode of Restoration Realities. There may be variations in procedures for your particular restoration project based on the types of materials you select and the nature or extent of your particular project. Always follow proper safety precautions, and read and follow manufacturer's guidelines, diagrams and safety notices that come with materials or products that you select.

Tools and materials used in this episode:

Sledgehammer
Flat bars
End nippers
Table saw
Power miter saw
Kreg jig or pocket jig kit
Air compressor and hoses
Extension cords
Finish nailer
Brad nailer
Random-orbital sander
Router and misc. bits
Cordless Drill
Reciprocating saw and blades
Drill Bits
4' Level
Hammers
Nail punch
Saw horses
Mixing paddle
Buckets
1/4" notch mortar trowel
Margin trowel
6" Taping knife
10" Taping knife
Drywall-mud pan
1 sheet of 3/4" OSB or plywood
2 sheets of of false-rock substrate
1 bag of grey mortar
1 4x8 sheet of 3/4" plywood
2x4s
3" masonry anchors
3 8-foot 1x6, poplar stock
1 8-foot length of 3-1/4" crown mold
3 8' pieces of glass bead or molding
2-1/2" finish nails for pnuematic nailer
1-1/2" finish nails for pnuematic nailer
1" brad nails
Carpenters wood glue
Quick-drying drywall patching compound
Drywall sanding sponges
Sanding disks 120, 220 grits

RESOURCES :

Victorian: American Restoration Style
Model: 0879058870
Author: Joan M. Brierton
Publisher: Gibbs Smith Publishers
Order this title from Amazon.com.

Renovating Old Houses: Bringing New Life to Vintage Homes
Author: George Nash
Publisher: Taunton Press
ISBN: 1561585351
Order this title from Amazon.com.

Renovating and Restyling Older Homes: The Professional's Guide to Maximum Value Remodeling
Author: Lawrence Dworin
Publisher: Craftsman Book Company
ISBN: 1572180293
Order this title from Amazon.com.

Selecting and Renovating an Old House: A Complete Guide
Author: United States Department of Agriculture
July 2000
Publisher: Dover Publications
ISBN: 0486409562
Order this title from Amazon.com.