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 The Alfieros discuss their old fireplace and the patina paint they applied to the copper surface.
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 After the installation: the Alfieros' safer electric fireplace with stylish wood trim.
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The crew begins by removing the old free-standing wood burning fireplace and replacing it with a new electric one. An electric fireplaces is considered a "Zero clearance" unit -- which can be installed anywhere there is electrical power. They do not produce any fire or flame and can be installed next to flammable materials such as wood -- in this case, the Alfieros bookshelves. The fireplace doesn't require venting or a flue or chimney, making it an excellent choice for the couple's "Florida" room.Materials: Safety goggles Gloves Filter mask Tape measure Drill with countersink drill bit Screw bit for drill Wood screws & trim screws 2 x 4 lumber (for fireplace frame) 2 triangular corner blocks for 2 x 4 frame Power saws (circular saw, compound miter saw) Wood putty 3/4" finished plywood 1 x 2 lumber (for mantle & bookcase nosing) Wood shims Level Construction adhesive Molding (for hearth trim) masonry drill bit Cold chisel Hammer drill (also called an impact drill, optional) 3-1/4" crown molding (for mantle) 1-1/2" crown or picture molding (for bookcase top trim) Edge trim molding (as necessary) Finishing nails Nail gun or hammer Latex primer Semi-gloss latex paint Brushes, rollers
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 Figure A
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 Figure B
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 Figure C
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 Figure D
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 Figure E
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 Figure F
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Hearth Construction
- Remove old fireplace, if necessary. Vacuum debris.
- Measure the existing tile hearth and build a 2 x 4 frame around the outside of the tile in a "U" form (note: depending on the height needed, this may need to be constructed from 2 x 6 lumber or built up as necessary)
- Pre-drill using a countersink drill bit. Screw triangular corner blocks into the inside corners of the frame and then screw the frame to the floor. Screw the 2 x 4 ends to the existing bookcase bottom molding. Countersink screws and fill with wood putty (figure A).
- Measure and cut the top hearth board (finished plywood) to fit over the 2 x 4 frame and back into the existing surround cavity.
- Check the level of the top hearth board and build up in the back with wood shims, as necessary.
- Apply construction adhesive to the shims (figure B) and along the top of the 2 x 4 hearth frame and set the top hearth board in place (figure C).
- Countersink screws into the hearth frame and fill with wood putty.
- Add molding around outside edge of hearth frame as desired.
Fireplace Installation and Bookcase Trim:
- Attach mounting hardware for the firebox as specified by the manufacturer. Test fit fireplace insert and check for level.
- Remove the fireplace and drill a large hole for the electrical cord to go to the nearest outlet. In this case, the crew had to drill through the tile and concrete surround for the original fireplace. When you are doing this type of work, remember to use a masonry bit, designed for use with brick, block, stone, quarry tile or concrete.
- Use a masonry bit to drill through tile or concrete, as necessary. To make a larger hole, we drilled four holes and then used a cold chisel to knock out the tile piece and the concrete behind it. A "hammer" (figure D) or "impact" drill has a hammering action that helps drill through concrete.
- Run the electrical wire of the firebox through the hole and towards the nearest outlet.
- Re-install the firebox and measure for the firebox surround frame: a 2 x 4 frame at the sides and top of the firebox (figure E).
- Measure and cut finished plywood to run along the top of the bookcases and across the top of the fireplace surround to create the "mantle". Build up the front and side edges, as necessary, using 1 x 2 lumber.
- Cut 2 x 4 lumber -- as necessary -- to build the frame around the sides and top (header) of the firebox and the sides and top above the fireplace insert.
- Pre-drill into the existing tile using a masonry bit, as necessary. Attach the 2 x 4 sides and header to the surround using masonry screws.
- Measure and cut a top "face board" out of finished plywood: to be installed over the fireplace insert. Countersink screws and secure in place.
- Next, measure and cut side boards out of finished plywood. Countersink and secure using trim screws.
- After the face boards are in place, the design and construction of the fireplace surround is up to the homeowner. Be creative. Consult fireplace pamphlets and decide on the cabinet style and trim desired. Additional face boards and molding can be added to build up the design. We decided on a clean, simple cabinet design with two fluted boards running up the sides.
- If desired, make fluted wood side trim using a router and appropriate router bit (figure F). Construct a jig to guide the router and create straight lines. Or buy pre-made fluted molding and any other molding desired.
- Attach molding and trim as needed. For the mantle: measure an cut 1 x 2 "facing" or "nosing" lumber as necessary to cover edges of plywood top. Miter corners, as necessary.
- Measure and cut crown molding trim for the mantle and top of bookcases. (The Rescue crew used large 3-1/4" crown molding for the mantle and 1-1/2" crown molding for the bookcase trim.) Tip: When cutting the molding, be sure to hold in the same orientation as it will be hung to get the perfect angle. After the molding is cut, attach using finishing nails.
- Fill all screw and nail holes with wood putty, then prime and paint new wood.
Cost of Professional Fireplace Installation = $6,700 Cost of Materials = $1,900 Amount Saved by Doing It Yourself = $4,800
RESOURCES :
Hearth, Patio and Barbecue Association
(Offers resources and consumer information for hearth and barbecue products, including product specifications, selection guides and safety concerns.)
1601 North Kent Street
Suite 1001
Arlington, VA 22209
Phone: 703-522-0086
Web site: http://hpba.org
Fireplace safety information: http://hpba.org/consumer/safety.shtml"
Majestic DEFD36 Fireplace (with brass trim and remote control)
A Plus Fireplaces
Phone: 800-282-1117
Web site: APlusFireplaces.com
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