Note: For a clean (no images included), easy-to-read copy of the "complete" instructions and materials list for this project, click here.
Materials: 4x4's
2x4's
2x2's
1/2-inch galvanized electrical conduit
Fast-setting concrete
3-inch galvanized decking screws
Mason string
Chalk line
Protective gear: face mask, gloves, safety goggles Tools: Variable speed drill
Level
Tape measure
Drill press
Clamps
Countersinking bit
Shovel
Post hole diggers
Wheel barrow
Hand held square
Pipe cutter
Circular saw
Bevel square
Speed square Before You Start:
- Determine the property boundary. This is done by a survey and will verify the actual property boundary.
- Determine setbacks. Contact your local codes office to determine the proper (and legal) setback for your location.
- Contact local utility companies to come out and mark all underground utility locations. This is a free service and is essential before any digging takes place.
- Determine the total liner feet of the fence and order materials.
Getting Started
- Measure in from property line to the proper setback distance and put a stake at each end of the fence line. Place the stake a couple of feet past where the corner post will be located. Repeat on all sides of the fence line.
- Wrap mason's string tightly around the stakes (figure A).
Tip: Make a loop on the end of the string and make a slipknot so it will be easy to take off later.
- Measure the size of your panels and the 4x4's and add together. This is how far apart your posts should be set. (Example: Our panels are 52" long and we used 4x4's that are 3-1/2" wide. We added 52" for the panels plus 3-1/2" for the posts and that gave us 55-1/2". Each outside edge of our post following the corner post was 55-1/2" down the line.)
- Mark post hole locations with post hole diggers (figure B) or spray paint.
Setting Posts
- Dig holes 18" deep and 10" wide.
Expert Tip: When digging post holes remember, the deeper the hole, the stronger the post.
- Mix fast-setting type concrete in a wheelbarrow with water -- follow directions on the package. This concrete is available at most home center stores. After setting post in the hole, fill the holes with concrete (figure C).
- Level and plumb the post.
- Let the posts cure overnight.
Assembling the Panels
- Basically, the bottom rail will have a 2x4 on the bottom with a 2x2 on the top with holes drilled where the 2-1/2" pieces of electrical conduit will be placed (figure D). The conduit will be sandwiched between a bottom and top rail.
Expert Tip: We built our fence around a children's play area and when you do that, you need to check your local codes for the spacing of the pickets. The distance is very important because you do not want a small child to fall through.
Note: Our pickets are supposed to be 52" long, but we made them 54" long. In case there is an extra half" here or there, we can cut them off exactly the length we need to make them fit snugly.
- Make a template (jig) by marking all the holes on a picket and then screw a small block on the end (figure E) to use as a stop so you can slide each picket up to the stop.
- Using your template, clamp your 2x2 nice and flush. Using a hand held square, mark your hole placements from your template (figure F). Once these are done, move on to your drill press.
Assembling the Rails
- When you have a lot of holes to drill and they need to be accurate, you need to use a drill press.
Note: You can rent a drill press for the day, but for a few dollars more, you can probably buy one and it is a useful tool to add to your shop.
- It is a good idea to build a fence and attach it to the drill press with clamps to use as a guide for the pickets when you go to drill the holes (figure G). This establishes a center line each time without having to adjust anything. Also, it is a good idea to use a base plate so that you will not drill into the metal of the table itself.
- Use a 3/4" drill bit so you will have a little play when you drill the holes (figure H).
- When you are ready to assemble the pieces to make the rails, use a small piece of wood as a spacer to center the 2x2's to the 2x4's and then clamp them together (figure I) to hold them in place while you drill pilot holes.
- Use 2-1/2" galvanized decking screws (figure J). Drill 4 screws to attach each rail assembly.
Tip: It is a good idea to drill a pilot hole with a countersinking bit. It prevents the wood from splitting when you install the screws. It also makes for a cleaner look.
- You can go ahead and predrill the toenail (screw or nail at an angle) holes with the countersunk head and start the screws in with your fingers for the top rails to make them easier to install later.
- Clamp conduit in place and screw a pipe cutter to the conduit (figure K) and proceed in cutting your pipe. Go around the pipe several times, tightening the cutter after every few turns. The conduit will snap off easily.
Trimming Bottom and Top Rails
- Since the rails are longer than needed, hold each picket along the vertical posts and measure the same distance on each end so that the pickets will be equal. Make a line where you need to cut and then cut the pickets.
- You will be using 3-inch galvanized decking screws to attach the bottom rails to the posts. You will be fastening the rails by toenailing them to each post. To make that job easier, drill pilot holes into the rails using a countersinking drill bit.
- Lay the top rail next to the bottom rail with the holes side by side and use your hand held square to make a line and then cut off the extra on the top rails like you did for the bottom rails.
(b)Assembling the Panels
- Before you can assemble the fence panels, all the bottom rails need to be installed. Drill pilot holes with a countersinking bit and toenail a 3-inch galvanized decking screw into each side of the bottom 2x4 railing (figure L).
- Cut a piece of scrap wood to just the right height to rest the top rail on when you install it and then use the scrap wood as a guide all the way around (figure M) as you install the rest of the top rails.
- Center the top rails on the 4x4 and then toenail them into place.
- Insert the conduits into the top and then drop them into the bottom holes (figure N).
- Install your final 2x4's onto the top of the 2x2's. They are assembled the same way you did the bottom rails -- with 4 screws along the top and then toenail them into the posts (figure O).
- Using a chalk line, make a line on the top of your posts to the height that you desire your posts to be and then cut them off with a circular saw.
RESOURCES :
Quick Guide: Fences and Gates
Model: 158011007X
Author: Creative Homeowner Press Editor
(May 1998)
To order this title from Amazon, click here.
Creative Homeowner Press
Website: www.creativehomeowner.com
Building Fences and Gates: How to Design and Build Them From Ground Up
Model: 1887374477
Author: Richard Freudenberger
(November 1997)
To order this title from Amazon, click here.
Lark Books / Altamont Press
Website: www.larkbooks.com
How to Design and Build Fences and Gates
Model: 0897213203
Author: Jeff Beneke
(July 1997)
To order this title from Amazon, click here.
Ortho Books
Columbus, OH 43216
GUESTS :
Joe E. Brown
Brown Fence Company
Website: www.brownfencecoinc.com
Dick Reynolds
Woodworker
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