| Installing a Chain Link Fence |
From "Build a Fence"
episode DBAF-102 |
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Materials: Wire mesh (11.5 gauge)
Terminal posts
Line posts
Tension bars
Rail loop caps
Rail cups
Dome caps
Wire ties
Tension bands
Gate kit (with all necessary hardware)
Industrial paint, rollers, brushes (optional)
Mason string and stakes
Concrete Tools: Post hole diggers
Shovel
Level
Measuring tape
Come-along winch
Mesh stretcher
Wire cutters
Channel locks (or wrench)
Pipe cutters Before You Start: - Determine the property boundary. This is done by a survey and will verify the actual property boundary.
- Determine setbacks. Contact your local codes office to determine the proper (and legal) setback for your location.
- Contact local utility companies to come out and mark all underground utility locations. This is a free service and is essential before any digging takes place.
- Determine the total linear feet of the fence and order materials.
Fence Parts - There are different gauges of the fence wire -- the smaller the gauge, the thicker the wire. If you prefer, vinyl coated wire is available that comes in black, brown and green.
- Your home center will have the whole range of products you will need for installing your chain link fence. You will need galvanized corner and end posts that are 2-1/2" tubing and dome caps (figure A) for the end posts.
- Also needed are 1-5/8" line posts and loop caps for the 1-3/8" swedged top rails (figure B).
- Tension bars are used on the ends and corners of the fence and are used with a 2-1/2" tension band (figure C).
- Nuts and bolts and wire ties (figure D) are used for the chain link. The wire ties are used to tie up the line posts and the top rails.
- Rail end cups and 2-1/2" brace bands (figure E) go at the corner for the top rails. They swivel to whatever angle you need.
Getting Started - Measure in from the property line to the proper setback and place a stake at each end of the fence line. Wrap mason's string tightly around the stakes. Do not put a stake directly in the spot where the corner post will go. The reason for this is that you would have to disturb the stake when you dig the hole for where the corner post will set. You just elongate the ends of the lines and set the stakes out a couple of feet; where the lines cross (figure F) is where the corner posts will go.
- Determine the post locations. A rule of thumb when installing chain link fencing is to not exceed 10 feet between posts. Therefore, depending on the total length of one side of the fence, you may want to put posts every 8 feet. Try and divide the total length by a number that will give equal distances between all posts and yet keeping the distance between posts under 10 feet. (If posts are installed more than 10 feet apart, it increases the chance that the mesh will sag between posts.)
- Mark post hole locations with post hole diggers (figure G) or spray paint.
- Dig post holes 18-24 inches deep and at least 8 inches in diameter.
Note: Depending on soil conditions and drainage, you may want to add a layer of gravel on the bottom of the hole a few inches deep. Setting the Posts - Adjust the height of each post so that it measures 45" from the ground to the top. Dig the hole out if it's not deep enough, or add more gravel if it's too deep. Once the post measures 45 inches from the ground to the top, add one bag of fast-setting concrete (figure H) per post. Ensure the post is both level and plumb. Then add water -- about one gallon per hole. Let cure for 48 hours.
Note: Be sure to consult an expert before setting the corner posts due to the different type soil and terrain. The corner posts must be higher than the standard 45" for the individual posts. Installing the Fence - Attach 2 rail cups to each post and loosely tighten them into place (figure I) so there is a little play. Attach a dome cap to the top of each post. Place a loop cap on top of each line post.
- Using a tape measure, cut the lengths of top rail to length. The top rail is "swedged" so that joining two pieces is easy. Cut the lengths of top rail with a pipe cutter (figure J). Insert the top rails into the rail cups all around the fence.
- When you get to the corners, position the 2 rail cups at 90-degrees.
- Go around the perimeter and tighten all the rail cups (figure K).
- Check mesh to ensure there aren't any "bad" diamonds at the head of the roll. If there is a damaged section, trim it off by clipping off the "knuckle" with bolt cutters or with pliers and weave out the bad section (figure L). You always want to start out with a nice straight edge.
- Slip 3 tension bands onto each post and loosely tighten. The bolt should face the outside of the fence (figure M).
- Start at the first post and stretch the mesh up against the post. Starting at the top, weave a tension bar through each "diamond" and through each tension band (figure N). The 3 tension bands should be spaced equally along the height of the post.
- Roll out the mesh along the top rail along the outer perimeter of the fence line and temporarily attach wire ties every 5 or 6 feet to keep the mesh upright. You will need help with this.
Stretching the Mesh - Stop a few feet from the end of the fence row to stretch the mesh. This allows room to work the come-along. Run a tension bar down through each "diamond" to the ground. Attach the come-along hook to the tension band's bolt at the terminal (end or corner) post (figure O) and the other hook to the tension bar. Ratchet until it's taut.
- Once a section has been stretched, cut off the excess length using wire cutters and start on the next section by stretching the mesh and then inserting a tension bar through the "diamonds" and the 3 tension bands, making sure to run it through each diamond. Cut off any excess mesh.
Installing the Gate - As you stretch the mesh across the top rail, there may be some uneven ground that may have to be trenched out. The goal is to have the top of the mesh remain the same height across the entire run. So digging a small trench to allow sections of the mesh to rest beneath the surface may be needed in order to maintain the constant height.
- Once all of the mesh has been stretched, go back and place wire ties every 5 or 6 feet along the top rail and use at least 3 ties per post (figure P). The ties are made of soft metal and are very flexible.
Gate Kit Assembly - Gates come in kits and you can get them in any width you like. Just follow the manufacturer's instructions They come with a series of parts which include gate clips, tension bar, a latch, ties, and male (figure Q) and female hinges. The male hinge attaches to the gate post and the female hinge attaches to the gate frame. The installation is real easy and goes together pretty much the same way the fence does. Attach the necessary hardware loosely at first making sure all the latches and hinges line up.
- Once everything is in place, go back and tighten down all the hardware (figure R).
Note: One of the best features of a chain link fence is there is no maintenance. The galvanized metal will stand up to years of abuse from the weather and you don't have to do a thing. Some people like to change the color of the galvanized metal to something else. There is the option of green or brown vinyl coated. If you don't want to go to that expense, you can use an industrial oil-based enamel, deep nap rollers and brushes. The nap roller is good for the mesh. It is a good idea to get a friend to help you paint so that you can work both sides of the fence at the same time. Before painting, mix a solution of two parts vinegar and one part water and, using a vegetable sprayer, thoroughly saturate the entire fence and let dry. The vinegar helps remove the factory coating on the galvanized steel and will enable the paint to adhere to the surface.
RESOURCES :
Fences and Gates: Plan, Build and Design
Model: 1580110940
Author: Creative Homeowner Press
(April, 2002)
To order this title from Amazon, click here.
Creative Homeowner Press
Website: www.creativehomeowner.com
Garden Walls, Fences and Hedges
Model: 1579903177
Author: Kathy Sheldon
(March, 2002)
To order this title from Amazon, click here.
Lark Books / Altamont Press
Website: www.larkbooks.com
Fences, Walls and Gates (Black and Decker Outdoor Home)
Model: 0865735840
Author: Editors of Creative Publishing international
(February, 2001)
To order this title from Amazon, click here.
Creative Publishing International, Inc.
Website: www.creativepub.com
Southern Living Fences and Gates
Model: 037609060X
Author: Southern Living Editor
(1999)
To order this title from Amazon, click here.
GUESTS :
Joe E. Brown
Brown Fence Company
Website: www.brownfencecoinc.com
| ALSO IN THIS EPISODE: | | Installing a Chain Link Fence |
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