In this first segment, host Paul Wilson will prep and setup for the project.How to Know if Your Floor Will Accept Tile?
Before we get started on tiling around entryways and fireplaces, you should know if your floor would accept tile. There should be no visible coatings on the floor that would prevent a bond. A completely painted epoxy slab will not bond the tile well. Minor paint and drywall residue is not a problem. To test concrete, drop water on the surface and if the concrete readily accepts the water by darkening and absorbing, it will receive tile.
Tiling over existing surfaces can sometimes be a problem. Tile weighs a lot, and the flooring has to be strong enough to support it. And if the structure underneath is flexible, the tile will crack.
Another problem is that many existing surfaces are uneven. To get a good bed for the tile, you have to take down the high spots and fill in the low spots and holes. Cracks only get wider over time, so you have to patch them.
For this particular project, the carpet in the den was on solid concrete, which is not a problem, but there were cracks in the floor when the carpet was removed. Since this was a family room and safety was a priority, the homeowners decided to use skid-proof tile. There was a wide variety from which to choose (figure A). What the family ended up with was a stone-like border that matched the foyer and fireplace. Because they spend so much time here, the family wanted this space to have extra interest. That meant they could get creative with tile borders, combined with carpet, and they had lots of fun playing around with colors and patterns.
Materials:
Carpenter's pencils
Razor knife
Steel tape measure
Grout float
Notched trowel
Margin trowel
Hydra sponges
Two five-gal. buckets
Tile cutter
Safety glasses
Ear protection
Dust mask
Knee pads
1/2" drill motor
Rod thin-set mixer
Chalk line and chalk
Clear lacquer
Broom
Floor scraper
Tile saw
4-1/2" masonry jamb cutter
Shop vacuum
Sealant gun
Specialty Materials: See Resources (below)
Preparation- Remove the old carpet in sections with a razor knife.
- Peel up the carpet padding using a hand scraper (figure A).
- Remove the carpet tack strips with a hammer and a flat pry bar.
- Remove any excess glue and padding remnants with a floor scraper and a putty knife.
- Sweep and vacuum the floor clean.
Steps for Treating Cracks (figure B) on Your Concrete Floor:
- Follow the manufactures recommendations for the crack suppression product you choose. For our installation we cut the crack suppression mesh to fit over the crack.
- Pencil in the area on the floor where the crack suppression liquid will be applied.
- Apply the liquid with a combination wide putty knife and heavy napped roller (figure C).
- Also embed the crack suppression membrane over the liquid with a heavy napped roller.
- Let dry for at least two hours prior to tiling.
- Note: Be sure to follow the manufacturer's instructions when applying and know that there are many different crack-suppression systems. We chose a mesh type for this floor.
This particular home had a stone fireplace and hearth that we would be tiling around. To prepare the stone hearth to meet the tile, Wilson undercut the hearth area with a 4-1/2" masonry dry-cut saw. Then he cleaned out the debris from the cut area with a chisel and hammer.
Safety Alert: Be sure to wear safety goggles and a mask when cutting stone.
- When undercutting the hearth (figure D), the cut size needs to be at least the tile height, plus 1/8" for thin set so it will fit underneath the cut-out stone.
- With a hammer and concrete chisel, chip out the material underneath the hearth for the tile insertion (figure E).
You have a great start to the floor. In the next segment, Wilson will measure and chalk the floor, then he'll start to lay the tile.