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  • Folk-Victorian Foyer Renovation: Ceiling and Walls
  • From "Restoration Realities"
    episode DRTR-111


    PHOTO
    In this episode of DIY's Restoration Realities, we help a Nashville couple restore the foyer of their turn-of-the-century Victorian. In this second segment, we address the less-than-historic drop-ceiling tiles and wall paneling as well as some wallpaper and plaster that has seen better days.

    Steps and information on this portion of the restoration are outlined below.

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    Safety Considerations and Prep Work

    • Important: For this project, wear protective eyewear, gloves, respirator or mask and long sleeved shirt for protection. This is especially important when working on areas that are above head level.

    • Check to see all electrical circuits to the area where you are working have been shut off at the breaker box. Also make certain that the area above drop ceiling is free from obstructions that would make job hazardous or impractical.

    • Prep the area by putting down drop cloths, tarps or plastic sheeting if appropriate. Tape off areas if dust containment is an issue. Note: Do not put plastic sheeting or poly tarps down directly over wood floors without first putting canvas or cloth drops down to reduce the chance of slipping.

    • Be environmentally responsible. Disposal of materials should be considered before removal -- such as the reuse of ceiling materials in appropriate area or by others, and recycling when appropriate. Check with your home center or local environmental agencies to locate recycling or waste-handling facilities for hazardous chemicals, construction materials, etc. Make using landfills or dumpsters the last choice in disposal.

      PHOTO

      Figure A
      PHOTO

      Figure B
      PHOTO

      Figure C

    Removing the Drop Ceiling

    The Lunds wanted to remove the latter-day acoustic tile drop-ceiling (figure A) to expose the full height of the room and open up the space. Here are the basic steps in the process.

    • Begin by removing ceiling tiles carefully (figure B). Avoid dropping or tilting the tiles unnecessarily as they may have debris and years of built-up dust on top of them.

    • Once removed cut all supporting wire and remove eyelets or any other support system holding the support grid of main track (full length heavier metal) or tees (two or four foot sections of lighter metal).

    • Remove the support grid piece by piece along with the wall-angle metal that also supports the grid (figure C).

    • Remember to recycle materials whenever possible.

      PHOTO

      Figure D
      PHOTO

      Figure E
      PHOTO

      Figure F

    Removing the Old Wallpaper

    • Remove wallpaper from ceilings or walls using a taping knife if material is loose (figure D).

    • If adhered to wall, use wallpaper remover by first scoring wall with wallpaper-scoring tool (paper tiger, jitter bug or similar tool), then spraying or applying wallpaper-remover solution.

    • Follow directions and allow to soak in and dissolve wallpaper paste, then use taping knife or large flat blade scraper to remove wallpaper.

    • Clean area of any remaining wallpaper paste by applying more wallpaper remover solution to area, then finish by washing and rinsing walls with a warm water or warm water with trisodium phosphate (TSP) solution.

    • In our case, the removal of the ceiling and wallpaper revealed fairly deteriorated plaster underneath (figures E and F). Evidently no finish coat of plaster had been applied over scratch coat. Erik opted for a solution of removing the wallpaper, skim-coating the plaster surface, leaving the existing paneling in place and installing a decorative molding at the union of the plaster skim-coat and paneling.

    Tips On Removing the Old Paneling

    • Remove paneling by first removing any molding holding it in place with a hammer and flat bar.

    • Try to "peel" paneling off wall.

    • If adhesive is applied, use floor scraping tool between panel and finished wall carefully, not gouging wall or removing large areas of plaster.

    • Carefully work the area top to bottom and scrape off any dried adhesive remaining on the wall.

    • Lightly sand remaining adhesive off walls.

      PHOTO

      Figure G
      PHOTO

      Figure H
      PHOTO

      Masking seams on the new walls by applying compound and tape.

    Wall and Ceiling Repairs

    • Repairs to damaged areas can be done with gypsum based (dry) compound and drywall sized to the wall thickness necessary. Variations in wall thickness can be made up with a skim coat or thin veneer of gypsum compound on top of the wallboard.

    • Remove any obstructions and existing wallboard, plaster, lathe or fasteners.

    • Cut wallboard to size and dry fit.

    • Apply construction adhesive to studs if necessary.

    • Fasten wallboard to framing with drywall nails or screws (figure G).

    • Mix gypsum compound and apply to all areas to be taped.

    • Apply tape onto compound and apply pressure to tape with taping knife or corner tool if appropriate.

    • Let compound set up or harden (time depends on type used and weather conditions), then apply 2-3 light top coats feathering edges for seamless appearance when sanded.

    • Sand across (perpendicular) seams when possible and use sanding sponge for corners, feathering or tapering the edges as you go.

    • Prime new wall area or entire area surface if appropriate and allow to dry (primer can usually be tinted close to wall color).

    • Paint area with no less than two coats of a good quality flat, egg shell or satin latex paint (figure H).

      Painting Tips: Remember that flat paint hides defects the best but is hardest to clean. Use higher sheen paints if in high traffic area. If blending new wall with old area, use larger nap roller cover (3/4" is a good choice) to create the wall stipple (small bumps) necessary to match the existing stipple that comes from multiple coats of paint applied over the years.

      PHOTO

      Figure I
      PHOTO

      Figure J
      PHOTO

      Figure K

    Picture Rail Molding

    • Measure the areas to be trimmed.

    • Lay out and or set up area to be trimmed.

    • You may want to purchase prefabricated molding. When purchasing, allow extra for bad cuts, wood or mistakes. An option for experienced DIY'ers is to mill and router-cut molding yourself to desired size and profile.

    • Prep, prime and paint or stain and seal molding prior to installation.

    • Miter or cope inside corners and miter outside corners.

    • Position the molding piece (figure I) and fasten with finish nails by hand or a pneumatic nail gun (figure J). Remember that this molding needs to be secure enough to hold the weight of pictures and picture hanging hardware.

    • Fill all nail holes with filler and touch up with paint or stain.

    • In our case, we created a special molding effect by installing two different strips adjacent to one another to give the appearance of a single molding (figure K).

    Note: This is a summary of steps included in the procedures shown in this episode of Restoration Realities. There may be variations in procedures for your particular restoration project based on the types of materials you select and the nature or extent of your particular project. Always follow proper safety precautions, and read and follow manufacturer's guidelines, diagrams and safety notices that come with materials or products that you select.

    Tools used in this episode:

    Speedheater® infrared paint-removal system
    Hammer
    Flat bar
    Pry bar
    Utility knife
    Flat and Phillips screwdrivers
    Floor scraper
    Paint scrapers
    Putty knife
    Cordless drill and bits
    Miter saw
    Circular saw
    Pneumatic finish-nail gun
    Hand planer
    Belt sander
    Random-orbit sander
    Router and bits
    Wallboard jab saw
    Rasp
    Mud pan
    Taping knife
    8", 10", 12" mud knives
    Corner tool
    Clean drywall bucket
    Mixing paddle (paint mixer for drill)
    Paint brushes
    Quart cut-in buckets
    Paint roller frame, extension pole and pan
    Paint mixing sticks
    Dropcloths

    Materials used in this episode:

    Pneumatic finish nails (1.5", 2", and 2.5")
    Paint stripper (meth chloride)
    Steel wool (various coarseness)
    Sandpaper (various grit)
    Disc-sander sheets (various grit)
    Belt sander belts
    Solvents gloves
    Cloth rags
    5 minute drywall compound
    20 minute drywall compound
    Drywall tape (250' paper type)
    Drywall
    Picture molding or stock
    Primer
    Paint
    Window glazing compound
    2" Disposable brushes
    Roller covers (2-3/4" and 2-1/2")
    Contractor-grade garbage bags
    2" painters tape "(blue tape")
    Plastic sheeting

    Safety Alert: Always wear eye protection when working with power tools or pneumatic tools.

    In the segment that follows, our homeowners and restoration specialists purchase and install entryway transoms and a vintage door.


    RESOURCES :

    Victorian: American Restoration Style
    Model: 0879058870
    Author: Joan M. Brierton
    Publisher: Gibbs Smith Publishers
    Order this title from Amazon.com.

    Renovating and Restyling Older Homes: The Professional's Guide to Maximum Value Remodeling
    Author: Lawrence Dworin
    Publisher: Craftsman Book Company
    ISBN: 1572180293
    Order this title from Amazon.com.

    Selecting and Renovating an Old House: A Complete Guide
    Author: United States Department of Agriculture
    July 2000
    Publisher: Dover Publications
    ISBN: 0486409562
    Order this title from Amazon.com.

  • ALSO IN THIS EPISODE: