DIY Network

Entryway Restoration: Front-Door Upgrade and Hardware From "Restoration Realities" episode DRTR-107

	Restoration expert Bo Sullivan specializes in all things old -- whether it's antique furniture, accessories, hardware, lighting or even plumbing fixtures.

In this episode, DIY's Restoration Realities visits Portland, Oregon and a 1925 Colonial-Revival house belonging to John and Kelli Bohls. The Bohls have already restored their kitchen, a bathroom, and most of the rooms in their house. Our restoration specialists assist them with restoration of the original front door and replacement of some period-inappropriate glass blocks with more traditional sash side-lights. In this segment, host Bill Click assists John with restoration of the door which suffers from a bad paint job and some wood deterioration.

Materials and tools for door repair:

Replacement door hardware
Paint stripper
Disposable horsehair paintbrushes (chip brushes)
Paint-stripper neutralizer
Sandpaper, various grits from 80 to 220
Drop cloths
Wide putty-knife/scraper
Paint scraper
Power sander
Belt sander
Cordless drill; screwdriver attachments
Sanding block
Flat rasp
Screwdrivers
Sawhorses
Clean cloths
Wood stabilizer
Polyester resin filler
Natural wood filler colored to match (natural finish or stained door)
Yellow carpenter's glue
Wood block (match door thickness and species if possible)
Primer (oil-based or high quality acrylic)
Enamel (oil-based or high quality acrylic)

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After removing the hinge-posts and removing the door hardware, Bill and John inspect the damaged areas (figure A). The door's peep-hole will be removed by filling it with a wood plug. The old doorknob opening is filled with old wood-filler, and the wood in that area is showing signs of rot (figure B).

Later, a wood-consolidant (also known as wood stabilizer) will be used to strengthen the wood fibers of the rotted areas and return some of the wood's structural integrity. For large areas of damage, consider replacing the damage wood with a new section of wood. For smaller areas of damage and doors to be repainted as in this project, remove the any loose or dry-rotted pieces.

Figure A

Figure B

Figure C

Stripping the Old Paint

The door in this project had latex paint applied over oil paint. It's often very difficult to sand latex paint, especially when it's applied over oil paint. Without removing this paint, the repairs we made to the door could not be sanded smooth. This meant that the paint would need to be removed using paint-stripper. An added benefit from stripping the paint is revealing the design details of the door hidden by many layers of paint. Here are the steps:

• Remove the door from the opening, place it on saw horses, and lay down drop cloths to protect the floor surface.

  Safety Alert: Paint stripper is caustic, and in some cases flammable, and its fumes can be hazardous. This is a job best done outdoors. If you work inside, be sure that there is adequate ventilation. Follow all of the manufacturer's safety precautions.
  
  

• Apply the paint stripper as directed by instructions on the container (figure C). Let it set as long as specified in the directions.
  

  	Figure D
  	Figure E

• Scrape off the paint with a wide putty knife to remove most of the softened paint.

• Finish removing the paint with a quality paint scraper tool (figures D and E). Wide scrapers work well on flat surfaces. Pointed and shaped scrapers work well for corners and details.

• Repeat the process until nearly all of the paint is gone and the wood exposed.

• Neutralize the paint stripper with an appropriate liquid product as directed on the stripper instructions.
  
  
• Sand the door as needed. For a door to be finished as natural wood, completely remove every bit of paint and sand thoroughly. For a door to be repainted, sand rough spots until door is smooth and ready for paint.
  

  	Figure F
  	Figure G
  	Figure H

• Sand down the paint around the hole to bare wood, being careful not to over-sand.

• Measure the size of the hole.

• Cut a piece of wood to the proper dimension to fill the hole. The plug should be the same thickness and diameter as the hole left where the peephole was removed. It's best to use the same type of wood as that of the door. This is important, not just for looks, but so that all of the wood will expand and contract at the same rate. (All wood expands and contracts to a certain degree based on environmental factors such as temperature and humidity.)

• Using a carpenter's glue (yellow glue), place the newly cut plug into the hole and allow the glue to set-up as per manufacturers recommendations. In our case, we secured the plug with quick-bonding wood filler to both bond the plug and fill in any small gaps (figure F).

• You may need to tap the plug into place with a hammer. Place a wooden block between the hammer and plug to avoid marring the surface of the plug.

• After the glue has dried, scrape off any excess and sand again.

• Using a putty knife, apply wood filler around the hole to cover any voids and make the finish surface smooth (figure G).

• When the wood-filler has dried, sand the area to prepare for primer and finish coat. We flipped the door over and used a belt sander to sand the plug flush with the surface of the door on the opposing side (figure H).
  

• For areas of soft wood (nearly dry-rotted), use a rotted-wood stabilizer (figure I).

• Use a chisel or scraper to remove any badly rotted areas, old wood filler, etc. (figure J).

  Figure I

  Figure J

  
  

  	Figure K
  	Figure L

• Apply the stabilizer (figure K) according to the manufacturer's instructions and let dry until the wood hardens.

• Sand down the paint around the damaged area to bare wood.

• Remove dust.

• Using a polyester or epoxy resin filler, fill the damaged area to the surface and cover any voids (figure L). This will harden to a tough surface ideal for attaching the hardware screws.

• Allow the filler to harden as per manufacturer's instructions.

• Sand the finish surface smooth. First use a flat rasp, then rough-grade sandpaper, and finally with finishing grade sandpaper.
  

• Sand the finish surface smooth, starting with a medium-grit 120 sandpaper, and finishing with a fine 220-grit.

• Remove all dust from the surface, first with a brush and then with a tack cloth or clean, soft cloths.

• Apply a primer coat to the door surface and allow it to dry.

• If the primer coat doesn't cover well, lightly sand it and apply a second coat.

• After the primer hardens, sand the surface lightly with a 220-grit sandpaper.

• Remove all sanding dust as described above.

• Apply an enamel top coat. Use the type of enamel appropriate for your situation.

• Be sure to use a quality paint brush, made for enamel paint, and that's at least 2-1/2" wide. This will help lay down a smooth surface of paint with a minimum of brush strokes.
  

  	The newly plated door latch vs. an identical one that's not been restored.

In the segment that follows, Chris, Kelli and John undertake the job of replacing the glass blocks with sash side-lights.

Note: This is a summary of steps included in the procedures shown in this episode of Restoration Realities. There may be variations in procedures for your particular restoration project based on the types of materials you select and the nature or extent of your particular project. Always follow proper safety precautions, and read and follow manufacturer's guidelines, diagrams and safety notices that come with materials or products that you select.

GUESTS :

Bo Sullivan, restoration parts specialist
Rejuvenation
Portland, OR
Phone: 888-401-1900
Web site: www.rejuvenation..com