DIY Network

Archway: Replacing the Header and Repairing the Flooring From "Weekend Handyman" episode WKH-309

	In this week's episode of Weekend Handyman, host Paul Ryan widens this regular doorway ...
	and converts it by adding an "easy" archway ...
	that adds size to the entryway ...
	and a uniquely beautiful decorative element to the room! This shot is from the other side of the archway looking into the living room.

Time: 12 hours over two days.
Difficulty Rating: This project rates a 3 out of 5 on the Weekend Handyman difficulty scale.

Materials:

For the Archway --

Drop cloth
Reciprocating saw
6' level
Circular saw
Table saw
Compound miter saw
Rubber mallet
Rotary cutting tool
Easy-Arch
Drywall
Joint compound
Flexible corner bead
Spray adhesive
Protective eyewear
Hammer
2 x 6 boards
Screws
Screwdriver
Nails
Power nailer
Shims
Rasp
Self-taping screws
Plywood
Drywall screws
Utility knife
Speed square
Tape measure
Eye protection
Dust mask
Gloves

For Repairing the Floor --

Sheet metal cap
Pliers
Screws
Screwdriver
Circular saw
Table saw
Compound miter saw
Tape measure
Construction adhesive
Floor boards
Nails
Hammer
Pin nailer
1x board
Rubber mallet

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	Figure A
	Figure B
	Figure C

Prepping the Opening

1. Make a temporary support using 2 x 6 boards (figure A). Cut them just a bit long and wedge them against the ceiling to support the load. Use screws to temporarily secure the brace.

2. Measure up 5-1/2" from the doorframe (the true width of the 2 x 6 boards) and make a mark for the cut.

3. Use a level to carry that mark straight across to the other studs.

4. Use a reciprocating saw to cut the short studs above the door. Be sure to cut them off square (figure B), not at an angle. When cutting the long studs, cut them at an angle, which will make for an easier removal.

5. For a header that will sit on top of a 2 x 4, it needs to be 3-1/2" thick. To make this, nail together a sandwich -- two pieces of 2 x 6 and a piece of plywood for the center.

6. Set the header in place (figure C). If cut correctly, it should just slide into place. You may need to do some minor adjusting with a hammer.

   Note: For this particular project there was a small gap between the header and the drywall so Ryan inserted some shims and then nailed the header into place.

	Figure D
	Figure E